Commander Front Driveshaft

[wal67]

Hi guys,

I just had a problem with my front drive shaft. I was towing my boat home from Geraldton WA and the drive shaft popped out of the CV at the transfer case end. I don't know why this happened but when the Mechanic in Gero rang the Perth Jeep dealer they said that it is a weak point on the car and nothing can be done to ensure that his doesn't happen again.

So now I am wondering if I am sitting on a time bomb while tow thousand of kilometers around WA.

Does the cardan shaft from valpacer's post create a good solution if so do you need to replace both the Diff and transfer case end?

Cheers

[valpacer]

They are a weak point, especially if you use them (which load does as well.)

Driveline services did mine, used the factory lower (diff end) slip joint CV joint and replaced the fixed CV (transfer end) with a 1310 double cardan from an Isuzu truck. All my driveshafts that broke were at the tcase end. And even my original front driveshaft diff end is still good.



It would still work with a standard height front diff as well. Was around 500 bucks, which is cheaper than a new front shaft from Jeep (if they have one in stock.....)

There is a little bit of machine work, and then cutting and welding the front shaft.

Took them 2 days.

If you need more pics, etc let me know.

Dave

[wal67]

Thanks mate, it looks like there is a driveline services branch here in Perth so I will give them a call.

Does the conversion reduce the refinement (i.e. increase noise and vibration) of the car? I do like how smooth this car is.

Cheers

[valpacer]

I dont think you will notice. Mine actually got smoother. The Hemis have a normal uni at that end, we got the CV due to the shorter driveshaft.

[wal67]

That's good. I just wish that mine had popped close to Perth then I could have got this done straight away. As it is I have paid more than you but I still have the weak joint

Might start putting aside some coinand just get it done when I have enough, regardless of the condition of the joint at the time.

I hate breaking down and it just gave all my friend a chance to s#!t can me for buying a Jeep and not a Toyota so don't want a reoccuring issue

Cheers

[valpacer]

Yeah I know how you feel, I did 2 at Jambo, 1 on the way down and 1 on the way back. Had to pay retail at Suttons in Sydney (i think they looked after me a bit!) mid Jambo to have a spare for the trip home. Lucky!

[briteway]

Originally Posted by briteway

I just found a small cut in the wheel speed sensor wire which is probably causing the issues I stated previously. I just filled it up with sika flex and I'll see how it goes at the next crossing. Hopefully solved.

Here is the pic of the area where it's been damaged and filled with sikaflex:


Here's a close-up, you can tell the thickness of sikaflex over the cable:


This used to cause an issue when doing water crossings, that when the next hill was to be tackled in 4LO, the QD2 would disengage, leaving open diffs, then enter into limp mode until its all dry. A code would be set and you could hear the electronic disengage the same way when normally engaging/disengaging. I'd usually clear the code and climb the hill but then it would happen again on the next hill, so I'd have to clear the code again, and again until it's finally dry enough, usually after 4-5 attempts.

Apparently, it's all going good now since the sika flex fix.

Also, here's a video demonstrating open diffs when that happens and locked diffs when code cleared:

You Tube