KJ Steel Roof Rack Rails?

[kim.beveridge]

Sounds good, I would be interested if t turns out ok

[Rison]

I could be interested too

[glend]

Update on this project:

I measured up the existing rails and traced the nylon mounts to try and work out an appropriate bend angle and leg length. I believe the bend should be anywhere from 30 degrees to 45 degrees (mandrel) but no more than this as it would look too upright but some people might prefer that look. The stock tube between the nylon feet is exactly 1 metre long.

I have heard back from the supplier I had emailed and have gone ahead and bought the parts directly from their online shop (they also have an ebay shop but the ebay fees mean that it's more expensive).

So I bought most of the stuff from this outfit:

http://www.ecsengines.com.au/all-products

mainly because they are nearby (Somersby on the Central Coast) and the shipping is reasonable.

I've picked up four 45 degree 1 5/8" tube mandrel bends with 90mm legs, and lengths of 1 5/8" tubing. I also bought a length of 1 1/2" tube to be used as an insert joiner if I need it to join the bends and tube together for welding (and to reinforce the welded joints). I may also make up some small notched tubes to act as bridge pieces on the feet to provide a tie down point hole (as per the stock molded feet).

I have bought (from an ebay merchant ) some steel bar 50mm wide and 5m thick to be used for making the mounting feet.

I will probably have to bend the steel feet slightly to fit the curve of the roof.

There is a 15mm bow in the stock steel tube rail and I will try and create a similiar curve in my new rail. I may have to make a bending jig for this shallow curve.

All of the bends and tubes are 1.6mm thick which I am hoping is sufficient for these short roof rails. The stock tube doesn't seem any thicker than that.

I should have all the bits by the end of the week, then the fun begins.
Total cost so far is less than $130 and that includes the shipping of the parts. Can't see needing to spend more as I have the welding rods, grinder wheels, paint, etc.

[glend]

Update: The tubes and bends have arrived. Just waiting on the bar plate for the feet. I think I can mod the stock cross bars to fit the new tube.
Update: Feet arrived.
Removed the stock rails today. Anyone wanting to do that, the outer section of the each end can be popped loose with a screw driver. There is a locking tab that inserts into the tube, so for the front foot you'll need to pop it out from the front of the foot and rotate it out so that the tab can come out. The rear foot pops out from the rear. There are two 8mm bolts holding each foot to the roof zerts, and they have some sort of locktite and sealant on them to stop water from getting into the zert cavity. Under each foot there is a rubber pad. The rear foot actually extends down the back to the window - yes it's all one piece. This is an issue for replacement of the rails because you need to decide how you finish off that area which will be bare without the stock foot piece.

The areas under and around the feet were really dirty, and had trapped red dust and everything else I have been through over the years. When I cleaned up the area under the feet I found some rust in one place. The rust was on the rear passenger side foot bearing surface where the roof panel joins the body side panel. It looks like the paint had split (or had been worn away by the foot) and allowed water into start rust on the edge of the join of the roof panel and the side panel; it's not much thankfully and surface only but I will need to get rid of it before going any further. Now this KJ has always been garaged when at home, so this maybe an issue that everyone needs to check at some point.

[Rison]

Originally Posted by glend

Update: The tubes and bends have arrived. Just waiting on the bar plate for the feet. I think I can mod the stock cross bars to fit the new tube.
Update: Feet arrived.
Removed the stock rails today. Anyone wanting to do that, the outer section of the each end can be popped loose with a screw driver. There is a locking tab that inserts into the tube, so for the front foot you'll need to pop it out from the front of the foot and rotate it out so that the tab can come out. The rear foot pops out from the rear. There are two 8mm bolts holding each foot to the roof zerts, and they have some sort of locktite and sealant on them to stop water from getting into the zert cavity. Under each foot there is a rubber pad. The rear foot actually extends down the back to the window - yes it's all one piece. This is an issue for replacement of the rails because you need to decide how you finish off that area which will be bare without the stock foot piece.

The areas under and around the feet were really dirty, and had trapped red dust and everything else I have been through over the years. When I cleaned up the area under the feet I found some rust in one place. The rust was on the rear passenger side foot bearing surface where the roof panel joins the body side panel. It looks like the paint had split (or had been worn away by the foot) and allowed water into start rust on the edge of the join of the roof panel and the side panel; it's not much thankfully and surface only but I will need to get rid of it before going any further. Now this KJ has always been garaged when at home, so this maybe an issue that everyone needs to check at some point.

Sounds like it is coming along well, I can't wait to see the final outcome!

I am looking at doing this as well so I can put a nice roof rack on their with a roof top tent.

[glend]

Repaired the rust under the left rear rail foot today, it was just on the very edge of the roof panel and I suspect the spot welder had caused it to raise up slightly to where it would be rubbed by the foot. Of course a loaded rack on a corrugated track probably helped it along alittle.

Re the new steel rails, the rear feet of the stock rails provide the molding that continues down to the rear of the roof, some additional work would be required to 'create' a susbstitute for the stock molding out of steel - either that or I would have to cut off the stock one and Sikaflex it onto the roof (which means I could not sell the stock rails in the future). The steel plate feet for the new rails will also need some careful machining to create a pocket for the raised edge of the zert or else the full weight will rest on the zert collar and not the bearing surface used by the stock rail foot - this in turn will allow the steel foot to move and likely work the zert loose over time. With all of these issues I have decided to forget this whole thing and reinstall the stock rails once I have cleaned them up (I'll probably also coat them in black Plasidip so that they look new again).

The whole project was getting to involved for my like for what might be gained, and I would never be puttng a roof top tent on a KJ anyway.

I have another use for the tubes on my campertrailer so nothing will go to waste.

Sorry to those that were hoping for a solution, but I should add that there is no way the US steel rail subsitutes currently on the market will solve the problems I raised above as they do not provide for the molding continuation to the rear glass and they too would bear directly on the zert collars from what I can see of them.

As cmohr once said regarding mods " you need to know when to stop".

[kim.beveridge]

Shame it didn't work out, maybe a project for another time..