Transmission Issues. 2.7 CRD

[indiedog]

Well, the smooth driving lasted only for that drive and for my wife to drive out to do the shopping. When she got back to the car it just wouldn't start with the gauges going all over the place. My immediate thought was battery. I drove out to meet her and then did a car swap so she could get the shopping home. With no tools there I got YOUI roadside assist to come and do the diagnosis. Only when the battery was removed from the system did the car start. So cracked plate in the battery was the conclusion. Drove it home and put a new battery in it yesterday afternoon then cleared all the codes and it then drove well. I've driven it again today and no issues with shifting a lot smoother.

So hopefully that is sorted but time will tell. So cracked battery plate can stuff up your transmission for sure.

[bodgie]

Battery issues can be the cause of lots of problems, if you do some research on here there'll be a number of threads saying a battery fixed it.

Jason

[indiedog]

Couple of days in and car is driving brilliantly. I forgot what smooth shifting was like. Will let you know if things change.

[indiedog]

So several weeks in and no further issues so the battery definitely the culprit here. I just wish the new battery would have also fixed my suspension issues.

[5oclock]

Its great that your trans issues are solved, just another reason to give the battery a good check up if your 2.7 crd has any engine or transmission issues.Lessons learned for all 2.7 crd pilots,thanks for posting an up date Indiedog.

[JeanLuke]

Thanks for the update. It's always good to hear the end outcome.

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[JeanLuke]

My turn...

My transmission threw a P2203 error today. It's the third or fourth time, so I think it is time to dive in and look at it more seriously. The error comes from the N3 speed sensor going short circuit. I presume this means a new conductor plate?

My parts list says it is 52108308AA. The "Everything CRD" thread gives the same, or MB 1402701161. Most places I look list 52108308AC. Here's the bit that gets me worried...

MB 1402701161 is Dorman 917679.
52108308AC is Dorman 917678 (which maps to MB 1402701261).

Which conductor plate do I want? I had always thought the last letter in Mopar numbers only related to backward-compatible design tweaks, not entirely different parts.

Next question... reading the manual, it looks like changing the conductor plate is quite simple - disconnect the plug, drop the pan, rempve the valve body, swap the conductor plate on top of it and reassemble. Is it really that easy?