Go You Aussie Jeepin' Fabbers hey!

[andy_n]

The orbital eyes I have, seem alot bigger than these rod ends.



I think they go in where the old bushes fit???

[GMEMUD]

You blokes are too tec for this kid. My last attemp at something like this was when I was 14 I made a beach buggy out of a '38 flet head ford shortened up so as the uni at the rear of the gear box connected up straight to the diff with a pivot on top of the diff for a bit of pivoting motion of the diff but no up and down motion. the front axle was a transverse leaf with a couple of leaver action shockies. The radius rods were shortened so they would fit the very short chasis and fixed to the chasis via a 1/2 in bolt through a hole blown by the oxy. the seats were steel plough seats welded to the same crossmember as the pivot point was mounted so you actually sat behind the rear wheel. the cable operated brakes were shot so all I had was reverse and a sore wrist. It lasted for years and chewed up a lot of beach and mud flats aroud Deception Bay.

[OzJeeper]

Free to good home - set of lower control arms sans TJPete - at the moment rusting away in the junkheap out the back.
You pay the postage..

Agree - no and NOT a bolt in option for the "daily driver" with rod ends....

[Fat Chili]

TJPete - sort of off topic (not really) but to get to the current stage of construction, what time frame has it taken you? ie, from design to first weld or fab and the overall time frame to date. curious.

Also your a bloody clean freak, the state of your workshop is impressive, Andy_N take note :P you grot!......lol I'm still waiting for my rock retainer and slab to go down before I even have a shed, but the rock retainer will serve two purposes retainer and TJ playground, I've already had to use the winch in the back yard (bogged myself once then had to recover a dingo 3 times.. :P )

Do you have any diagrams, drawings or pics of what the end result and all that love (hard yakka) will achieve, as I'd like a sneak peak.

Why in your opinion are some of the bolt on after market CA's inferior, is it attention to detail or mass marketing or other.....?

Clause: you may PM your reply to the last question (if you choose), then you won't need to go into damage control.

[Hic]

The RUBICON SuperFlex Joint both small and large are available now as a weld in (Raw) product. The Unit is very strong and fully serviceable unlike most other forms of joint they are steel on polymer and preload can be adjusted.

Small $53.00
Large $65.00

You can purchase rebuild kit for the joints from $14.90 and we also manufacture a tool that accepts a ½ inch drive to adjust the joints preload and facilitate assembly / disassembly.

Small Joint Tool $24.00
Large Joint Tool $31.50

There is currently a technical data sheet being put together on the joints that will cover materials / dimensions and misalignment figures. PM me if you need any other information at this time.

[Timmy]

what size rod ends are you using pete?

[FireTruck]

Again, not a direct bolt in, but for anyone interested here is my 2cents...

I run arms that have a jonny joint on one end (very, VERY similar to the joint described here by Hic) and a Patrol (GU??) rubber bushing on the other end.

The arms flex well behond what my coils/shocks/coil overs can handle.

Advantages I see of this setup:
* rebuildable, greasable joints. If you dunk it in the goo, pump some grease through to clean out your joints.
* easy to obtain, off the shelf bushings... and let me tell ya, they flex like mad.
* rubber bushing on the frame end of each arm... less vibrations, smooths out all the lumps and bumps a bit. For a daily driver this should be considered.

S.