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  #50  
Old 21-03-2017
G.man  G.man is offline
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Well I think Jeep made it complicated because in Au they state 229.31 with or without DPF.

Looks like they are not aware that a 0w40 229.31 and.51 does not exist.

Mobils recomendation is mobil 1. It is MB rated (mercedes benz i assume is MB) AT 229.3 AND 229.5 (Non dpf) while 229.31 and 229.51 is the low ash etc content for DPF vehicles.

While jeep australia just said to use that (rhe low ash etc) for both.

I think Jeep here have their wires crossed and what made it all so confusing.

Thanks for the feedback though.
  #51  
Old 28-04-2017
KJ75  KJ75 is offline
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I used mobile delvac in the past and it's probably the best oil out there, but I just can't afford it.
I currently use Penrite HPR5 Full Synthetic, and by 7000Km it is black and stains my hand.
I am considering moving to 5000Km oil changes but I feel I am wasting oil.
  #52  
Old 28-04-2017
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Tom&Phet  Tom&Phet is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJ75 View Post
I used mobile delvac in the past and it's probably the best oil out there, but I just can't afford it.
I currently use Penrite HPR5 Full Synthetic, and by 7000Km it is black and stains my hand.
I am considering moving to 5000Km oil changes but I feel I am wasting oil.
I have been using Penrite HPR5 for the past 3 years on mine (2005 KJ CRD 2.8 ) and in the beginning the oil was black as well but after about 20'km things changed and the oil comes out darker but not black. Oil changes between 5 and 7'km depending on time. Diesel fuel only from BP and every 3rd tank Diesel Power additive. Done a engine purge too (Liqui Moly) with a secondary oil change after about 150km and that made a big change in oil colour. Engine has now just under 200'km down.
  #53  
Old 28-04-2017
dhula  dhula is offline
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Black oil, although stinky and a PITA as it stains your hands and everything else it touches, is not necessarily a bad thing. Shows that the oil is is working at doing what it's supposed to do, the trick is changing it when it needs doing. Some of that blackness will be due to the oil that stayed in the engine at change time mixing with the new stuff.
I'm not sure changing at 5k kms is needed on this engine as it may very well be too early and wasting money but with only 6lts of oil in the sump isn't too bad compared to one 4wd I owned witch had a 10lt sump and 5k kms changes by the book. The only real way to tell if you're changing at the right time is by oil analysis which is pretty cheap now-a-days and if you can run the oil till say 10k kms or even 15k kms will pay for itself in savings made by not buying oil/filter early.

I'm actually considering going back to doing engine oil changes by hours like I used to a while back instead of kms. Not a hard thing to manage but IMO can be a more accurate gauge for actual engine work done, especially if doing a lot of low range work or lots of city driving.
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Last edited by dhula; 29-04-2017 at 12:56 PM.
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