Grand Willys Project

[Gojeep]

Originally Posted by Tassie Jeeper

nice not long now i dont know alot about welding panels and to be honest im terrified of it haha i will enjoy watching u cut it into little pieces and put it back together

Going to be learning experience for me too and have a few different techniques to try out. Even though I was a sheet metal worker back in the early 80's, it wasn't on anything as thin as body panels. Whole different ball game. I'm ordering smaller mig wire and liner for my mig so it will be ready to go when I am up to it.

[Gojeep]

Originally Posted by bodgie

Hi Marcus,

This mob http://www.autoenginuity.com do a DRBIII product which would support your vehicle, it may do (some of) what you are looking for.

Jason

Hoping for some thing that gives you different tunes as well, but good there is some thing to start with.

[Gojeep]

Originally Posted by Turismo07

Ah I see... Well at least you're able to open the inlet and outlets of the stock cats then, and esp to 3"! That'll get some flow through them for sure.

Re tuners, there was a thread recently in the 'Grand Cherokee' section where someone unfortunately found out the hard way with a US tuner on our Euro spec vehicles, and then others claimed to have tuners that did work, so maybe check that thread out. Also AEV do a procal (I think its called that) tuner for the WH/XH's that allow you to re calibrate for change in tyre size etc and sorts out the speedo/ODO/trip computer/trans shift points/ESP/Traction control/ABS/etc accordingly, maybe that's worth a look. Then there's also CRDSTU who has the GDE tune for diesels but that may also work on the Hemi(?) or at least CRDSTU has something else for the Hemi?

Thanks for the leads. Least I wont have to worry for a while so hopefully more comes out by then.
I looked at the flow results of the after-market slimline cats like what these headers can be ordered with, and they flowed poorly. The best flow was from the 5" round cats and the bigger the pipe in and out, the better it flowed with the same body size. The stock cats happen to be 5" and makes sense that it doesn't have to be as tightly packed in a bigger body. Going to be a bit of mucking around to get them in, but will give it my best shot.

[Tassie Jeeper]

Originally Posted by Gojeep

Going to be learning experience for me too and have a few different techniques to try out. Even though I was a sheet metal worker back in the early 80's, it wasn't on anything as thin as body panels. Whole different ball game. I'm ordering smaller mig wire and liner for my mig so it will be ready to go when I am up to it.

i have seen guys use a tool to recess the steel they are putting in so it goes behind it and sits flush on the outside then they drill a series of small holes in the outer piece and do small tacks where the holes are and grind flush and bog the rest from what i have seen it does not need to be fully welded though if it were me id take my time and weld all of it

Originally Posted by Gojeep

The best flow was from the 5" round cats

yer i was gonna put a 3" stainless exhaust in the jeep and i was going to flange it out to 4" to run a 4" cat and then back to 3" again so the cat didn't affect performance as much but i never got around to doing it so dont know if it would have helped that much

[Tassie Jeeper]

u can see what i mean in the pic below:

[ryanmcsh]

There are 2 ways to get that step in the sheet metal, 1 is to use a joddler ( http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260531537...84.m1423.l2649 ) which is time consuming but a good sized tool for doing small jobs. The second way is to get a bead roller/rotary machine with the correct dies to step the metal back the distance you need, usually around 20G, but depends on what you are working with, and just roll it along the edge ( http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200889747...84.m1423.l2649 ).

They are the usual methods/tools.

[Gojeep]

I would never use a lap joint on panel work you can see. Great for doing floor seams and such but never panels like the roof, bonnet etc. This is because the double thickness causes a different expansion rate when it gets hot or cold. No matter how good it looked once bogged over and sanded smooth, changes in temperature will show the seam, especially under fluorescent lights. I may have to use this technique on the floor as this is what is called for when doing cut and shuts on cars. But that might be only needed for a non chassis situation where it is a stressed member. Only problem is the Australian standards call for a 20 mm over lap and I have not been able to find any joggler/flanging tools with that deep a throat on the hand of air powered versions over the 6+ months I have kept and eye out for them. Using a bead roller could be a bit hard if you have to run a whole firewall and floor that is one piece through it but you only have to do one side so could run the shorter added part. But I was going to keep that attached to the door sill etc. I will be using the plug weld technique for attaching the floor to the rear wall. Will be bending a lip over the end of the floor and drilling holes and welding through them like if they were spot welds.
Thanks for your input and ideas.