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  #561  
Old 09-02-2013
deserthucker  deserthucker is offline
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Good old days we use to but weld panels, then RR panels were 18g.
  #562  
Old 10-02-2013
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Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Look even better on.

Had 10 minutes to spare so quickly threw on one header. Cannot use the stock bolts so either use the SRT8 ones or some M8x30mm with 1.25 pitch flange head bolts. I just picked up some zinc plated one from the local auto parts store. Might switch the stainless ones for finial assembly.


Plenty of clearance to the starter and nothing interfered at all.


I'm pleased with the way they look.
Looking good there Marcus, just one thought though on the bolts, in my experience stainless bolts can be an issue when screwed into a dissimilar metal, though I'm sure you're aware of that already.
Great to see it coming along....
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  #563  
Old 10-02-2013
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Gojeep  Gojeep is offline
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Looking good there Marcus, just one thought though on the bolts, in my experience stainless bolts can be an issue when screwed into a dissimilar metal, though I'm sure you're aware of that already.
Great to see it coming along....
Yes have had trouble with galling before so will just stick with the zinc plated flange head bolts. I used anti seize on the O2 sensors into the stainless bungs for that reason too.
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  #564  
Old 10-02-2013
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Gojeep  Gojeep is offline
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Originally Posted by deserthucker View Post
Good old days we use to but weld panels, then RR panels were 18g.
Want to butt weld them too. See what the engineer says when the time comes.
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  #565  
Old 11-02-2013
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Got the rest of the system from the US finally. It is the fully stainless Mopar/Corsa one for the WK SRT8. Be interesting to see how well it fits into the Willys frame and wheelbase.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 01-08-2017 at 08:55 PM.
  #566  
Old 14-02-2013
DorisGreys  DorisGreys is offline
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Nice job! Well done!!!
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  #567  
Old 14-02-2013
ryanmcsh  ryanmcsh is offline
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hey marcus, just had a thought about joining the body work, im not sure you will like it, but it is an idea.

If you lap joint the whole body and the bonnet, then smooth it all off with bog, then use it to make a mould out of fibreglass, throw some stiffening in the roof with braces and things, cut the centre of the roof out, leave about a 100-200mm edge to attach the fibreglass to then smooth it all in. That will save seeing ugly weld lines in the middle of a big panel, which is always stupidly hard to cover up.

Just a thought that might save some heartache with trying to hide that weld, plus then you have a fibreglass bonnet as well. ha ha ha.
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