Quote:
Originally Posted by LuluBelle
Thanks everyone for the input
My entire cooling system is NEW!
and clean as including all the rad air con rad and tranny cooler rad
2 years ago and 4000 klm ago I flushed the block and replaced the thermostat radiator and water pump
all highway driving as I live in Blackall its on the highway straight away 100 klm either way to the next town............and no stop start traffic in town
so one would think at 100 to 105 kph there would be plenty of air flow to keep it reasonably cool
then 2000 klm ago I had thermostat issues I replaced it with one from repco whick died after a week luckly I was in Brisbane so I changed that thermostat for this my 3rd thermostat which supposedly opens at 85 deg I changed the cover as well so there would be no chance of a leak I also changed out the ebay aluminium plastic radiator for a OEM radiator and bottom hose it ran a bit cooler on the way home but still hotter than I would of liked after all that $$$$$
still over the 100 mark whats the next mark on the dial 110? that's where it was staying
not much use in the last 12 months as we generally drive the PT around town probably 500 k in the last 12 months
all fluids are correct although I found I needed about 500 ml of coolant to top up after sunday
so you can see my dilemma all the cooling system is good?
I am going to run it in the yard to see if the electric fan cuts in ok but you shouldn't need that on the highway
Should You?
Is it the ElCheapO coolant from supercheap I use ? doesn't worry the PT and its a east/west engine it runs nice and cool
Should I try a expensive I bet you bute waterless coolant?
I really don't know at the moment
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FWIW ... My run around area down here, is similiar to yours.
Back in 2009 ... I did this ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by carvesdodo
The cooling list ...
Adrad 2row copper/brass radiator .. JEE9001.C/A2 .. bought through local radiator supplier,
New Top & Bottom Hoses .. (Mr Wooders),
New Hose Clamps .. (Bursons),
New Tridon Thermostat .. TT1-195'f .. (Bursons), Is fully open at 205' imstead of 220' like the factory specs mentioned for the XJs thermostat.
New T'stat housing (Mr Wooders),
New USMW Water Pump (Mr Wooders),
New USMW/Derale heavy duty FanClutch .. (Mr Wooders),
New Tridon 16psi Rad Cap .. (Bursons),
Back Flushing,
Tectaloy 60Plus premixed rust inhibitor " type B" coolant .. (Bursons), http://www.tectaloy.com/page14.html
Check online sources for a premix brand of your preference, and anti-freeze ratio suitable for YOUR needs.
New Dayco Fan Belt .. (Bursons),
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... and bypassed the radiator ... so the tranny oil only runs through a proper sized cooler.
Havent seen engine running temps of 100*c since - even on 40*c days
... on any of my temperature monitors,
... and I have to manually turn on the factory 12v fan now and then, to make sure it still works, as it hardly ever needs to activate except for prolonged idling on a 35*C+ day.
What elcheapo coolant from supercheap are you using?
Was it a premix ... or did you buy an eth-gly concentrate and mix it with water yourself ?
Overheating on the highway usually points to a radiator blockage.
New or not ... I'd be pulling the rad and giving it a back flush,
... as its quite possible your "new" rad got some gunk in it from the engine.
... or its gunked up from the lack of use over time ...
X 2 with all the others suggesting that you confirm your temperature readings.
The dash gauge is an indicator ... and generally useless as a diagnostic tool.
Do you still have the tranny oil running through the hot side of the radiator before it gets to a cooler ?
Any fault codes ? O2 sensors arent dodgy and causing too rich / lean mixes ?
X 2 with the others on finding and fixing THE problem,
... before you waste time and money on mods, and chopping unnescessary holes in your bonnet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rainman
... Antifreeze is not that great at transferring heat ...
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Not that great ... at a lot of things ..
Just to clarify tho .....
Its actually quite at good at transferring heat,
The issue with it is ... it likes transferring heat around the cooling system so much ... that it doesnt want to let it go, at the radiator, compared to what happens with water and other liquids.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rainman
What is 'ECU thinks its running choke '
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junglejuice
I'm assuming he means that the system will run richer when at cool temps....
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From the factory manual ....
A Warm-up cycle is counted when the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) has crossed 160°F / 70*c ... and has risen by at least 40°F since the engine has been started.
The fuel injection system has the following modes of operation:
² Ignition switch ON
² Engine start-up (crank)
² Engine warm-up
² Idle
² Cruise
² Acceleration
² Deceleration
² Wide open throttle (WOT)
² Ignition switch OFF
What the OP thinks is "choke" probably depends on whether he has read a
factory tech article, or various forum type info, or a cooling product sales pitch,
Full "choke" would be a cold weather, cold start,
... Likely decided on by the Intake Manifold Air Temperature Sensor,
... followed by reduced fuel input levels according to the coolant temp sensor i.e. the various, increasing, temps read during the "warm up mode".
Ahhhh ... life was so much easier in the old days,
... pull the choke knob out for a COLD start ... push it in a bit after start, push it in a bit more whenever the vehicle starts spluttering and bunny hopping down the road - due to too rich a fuel mix ..
