What did you do to your Grand today (ZJ/WJ)?

[Siggers]

5/30 is the recommended weight in AU for most oil manufactures for the HO. I have a HO and when I first got oil for it, all the majors recommended it. I run a 15/40 in it now, use to run a 10/40 in it and it was smooth, but had a very slight tick/knock up top that I didn't like, so moved to a slightly heavier weight, also with 230k on it she has well and truly run in.

[bleetnblurt]

Originally Posted by Siggers

5/30 is the recommended weight in AU for most oil manufactures for the HO. I have a HO and when I first got oil for it, all the majors recommended it. I run a 15/40 in it now, use to run a 10/40 in it and it was smooth, but had a very slight tick/knock up top that I didn't like, so moved to a slightly heavier weight, also with 230k on it she has well and truly run in.

the 5 is the weight at start up , in hotter climate a 10 or even higher , when a engine wears the clearances get bigger , hence the first start up and a thin oil used is to thing for cold start , the HO does run bigger tolerance because they run a TRI METAL bearing tri metals are preferred in racing so on due to there more forgiving than a bi metal a bi metal bearing runs closer to (*less clearance) hence the 5w , if a 5w was used in the HO engine it gives a little time to say : "fill the gap" . if I placed 5w between the tips of my fingers , and 10w between another set of my fingers the 10w would "stick" more when the fingers are moved apart , this is why a heavier grade at start up is needed , after it heats up who gives a flying fling of oil as long as its not black and charcoaled

[bleetnblurt]

plans are going forward to remove the engine out of the overland , after learning today that number 8 con rod bearings were POXY BONDED into the con rod.
I am thinking the person who did so had a sponge bob moment

[Grippy]

Originally Posted by bleetnblurt

plans are going forward to remove the engine out of the overland , after learning today that number 8 con rod bearings were POXY BONDED into the con rod.
I am thinking the person who did so had a sponge bob moment

Now that sounds mighty dodgy!
Are you rebuilding it or going for replacement engine?

[bleetnblurt]

Originally Posted by Grippy

Now that sounds mighty dodgy!
Are you rebuilding it or going for replacement engine?

going to rebuild it , I have a spare standard crank there good for around 500hp , but problem will lay at the connecting rod standard rods are pressed , and the HO is full float , so I am one down in a rod which ill have to dig up from somewhere , that's unless I replace all rods with the pressed type which I don't really want to do .
once I get the engine out I can check it for out of round and see but once a knock is a knock tri metal bearings although there good will mark the crank if any dirt or muck get onto them , I was told the rear seal and oil pump were not replaced , and if it was glued possible that the journal on the crank is restricted or even blocked ? when ever a bottom end is redone the idea is to use plastigauge to check clearance crank needs to be checked for being bent or out of shape ,same for con rods. I don't think this was done .

[bleetnblurt]

the happy little alf is on the road , and insured
NOW I can concentrate on the overland and start forken out for fixing.
ill now have to stand out on the corner to earn some money
more than likely go broke in thirty seconds.

[Siggers]

finished my duel battery tray, and picked up an optima red top for $115, oh yeah, its coming together, been working on this damn duel battery thing (with the stock tray) for some time.