2.7 drivers

[bodgie]

The length of the tube doesn't matter, the tool to measure fluid level is the key component. The right dipstick has an area that bottoms out on the transmission and no further. This gives you the accurate level.

You can probably replace the filler tube pretty easily and cheaply, may be worthwhile looking at.

Injectors and pumps are the main thing that can burn your with high mileage CRDs, apart from that they are pretty solid.

[mattyboombatty]

Originally Posted by bodgie

The length of the tube doesn't matter, the tool to measure fluid level is the key component. The right dipstick has an area that bottoms out on the transmission and no further. This gives you the accurate level.

You can probably replace the filler tube pretty easily and cheaply, may be worthwhile looking at.

Injectors and pumps are the main thing that can burn your with high mileage CRDs, apart from that they are pretty solid.

Cheers for that Bodgie...That's a bit of good news regarding the trans, I didn't realise the dipstick bottoms-out (I've got one on order).

Yep, I think they're pretty good and I've heard great things about them. This one has done about 270k, nice body & interior, but blowing clouds...Big clouds .

I ran a straight-edge along the tops of the injectors, found 3 of them were too high, so I suspect they've got more than 1 seal and it's screwing with the atomisation.
I'm about to pull all 5 injectors to give them, and the seat/cylinder a proper clean.
Then I'm doing the EGR bypass.
I'm hoping these things will eliminate, or at least decrease the amount of smoke...If not I'll probably remove & clean the intake manifold as it's pretty clogged, but that job looks like a PITA so I'm hoping to avoid it.

BTW...Would it have killed them to make the engine-bay 4 inches longer so we could get to injector 4 & 5?

[Snowy Jeep]

You guys might be able to help me with some advice for when I install my refurbished injectors (when they arrive).
I purchased the Febi Bilstein washer/bolt/clamp packs from MB Spares and there are 2 washers per pack. I was told the thinner washer was for normal depth injectors and the thicker washer is if you need to ream the injector hole a lot.
My car has done 340,000kms so I'd say it's not the first time the injectors have been out but how do know what washer to use? Is there an official depth measurement so I can make all the injectors sit at the same depth?

[almc3]

I've changed injectors now on 3 WJ's .I have the cutting tool from ebay ,that I give the bores a fine lick with then just us the normal washer ,cleaning everything with brake clean .Biggest problem (besides pulling #4 & #5 without dropping motor) is cleaning gunk out the clamp bolt thread -I now have a tap set and a stainless steel bolt that has been chamfered off as a tread chaser .I also have a wire brush to clean out the injector bore -genuine MB tool .Fit the injector line loosely to the injector before tightening clamp ,to ensure correct alighnment before final torque of 7n/m PLUS 90 degrees Worked for me ! Had to get #3 clamp bolt helicoiled on one Jeep ,as injector blew out when driving along ,but that's another issue caused by incorrect torque on bolt or disintergration of copper washer.

[almc3]

Measured the injector bore depth on a used head with verner depth gauge and coming up with 91.00mm exactly

[Snowy Jeep]

Awesome info thank you so much for this. I didn't get ceramic paste with my new washers and bolts and have read that copper anti seize will do. I have access to copper anti seize and nickel anti seize due to the mining town I live in. I'm keen to use anti seize because my injectors were able to be wiggled out without the use of a pulling tool.

[almc3]

Don't use copper anti seize with alloy or with internals of engines ,use the silver stuff or the Cat engine assemblylubricant - the copper leaches into aluminium and can destroy threads in aluminium heads ,also can act as an electrical conductor and speed up the electrolysis process -also in the big gear can give bad SOS oil samples as copper is present in crank gearings ,water pumps bushes ect indicating a failure -talk to your Diesel Fitters and borrow what they use !