2.7 drivers

[Snowy Jeep]

Cool. I'm borrowing the reamer from a diesel fitter out at one of the mines so I'll ask him for some that Assembly Lube too.

[silycr]

I've done the injectors on these CRD's a few times. Had a mechanic do it for me in Qld as I was short of time. Long story short, I should have done it myself. Blew clouds of smoke and would heat up a lot. He left 2 extra washers in injectors. When forced to re-do the job, he found one of the washers and assured me there were no more. A day later blew #1 injector washer at servo. Luckily had tools and spare new washer and bolt, so replaced in servo parking at 4am.

#4 injector is accessible with the drivers side engine mount bolt removed and carefully lowered. Just enough room to get the long injector out. Be careful of the turbo mount near the frame.
Had one of the reconditioned injectors fail, with no codes and no access to DRBIII tools or anyone qualified to work on the jeep. Diesel mechanics had no idea. Quickly became an expert on diagnosing fuel system issues(found an actual mercedes sprinter training manual)

Mechanic also made what seems to be a common mistake of putting a hole in the valve cover and had to have it welded.

Also of note, the clamping system for the injectors is a terrible design.

With the torque specs, after having done the 7nm + 90 degrees a few times, I wasn't comfortable with it anymore. Found someone had done experiments with the heads and produced a final torque spec at yield which I was more comfortable using. Sealed the injectors every time too.

I also used aluminium anti-seize, available at Bursons https://www.permatex.com/products/lu...e-lubricant-4/

I always purchased genuine mercedes injector bolts, but got my washers from diesel mechanics. The mercedes/jeep washers are a harder materia

[Snowy Jeep]

No wonder the rest of the world refers back to this forum for info on WG CRD's.

What was the new torque procedure you use?

I made sure I fished out all 5 copper washers from the injector ports.

[almc3]

Yes - little info available outside the forum and horror stories every where - my neighbour was quoted $4500 just to remove and install engine plus the cost of new set of injectors and what ever else they found .The engine is far from perfect , but in Europe , these engines in Sprinter Vans often run up 5 even 600,000klm without major work , while here in AU from my experience 200,000klms is when many have fuel and overheating problems . The WJ Overland I currently drive is 151,000 klms but had a main fuel pump , 2 failed injectors and last month new front tailshaft replaced in it's short life . But that what makes the old girls interesting !

[silycr]

This is the thread of the testing done for the torque specs of the injector hold down bolt
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=25300

Long story short
62 in/lb(7nm) + 90degrees
62 in/lb(7nm) + 180degrees
Will result in 0.08mm crush of standard seal. Additional 90 degrees results in 0.30mm bolt elongation

180-190in/lbs (21nm) was the measured torque spec at bolt yield. I used this value as the target torque spec to ensure the bolt was at spec to stretch without causing more damage than necessary to the aluminium thread of the cylinder head. In my case, this method has been more successful at sealing than the Mercedes method. Obviously discretion is advised. If the torque spec is not quite being reached caution would be advised, as it's a sign it is either stretching prematurely, the thread is damaged or the thread and hole have debris.

[Corsten]

Originally Posted by silycr

I've done the injectors on these CRD's a few times. Had a mechanic do it for me in Qld as I was short of time. Long story short, I should have done it myself. Blew clouds of smoke and would heat up a lot. He left 2 extra washers in injectors. When forced to re-do the job, he found one of the washers and assured me there were no more.

Gentlemen,

I need some advice.

My sad story: I purchased a 2004 GC 2.7 CRD with 230k km just under a year ago. I got a mechanical warranty with the vehicle. I've done less than 3000 kms with the vehicle. Two months ago while I was driving all the gauges died but the vehicle kept running, had full power etc. This happened two or three times and then the windows stopped working. Took it to a local auto electrician who traced the issues with the gauges to an electrical control circuit located around the gear shift. During the time the vehicle was in his shop the vehicle wouldn't start.

He took off the engine cover and discovered "black death", particularly bad around the no 3 injector. Spoke to the insurers and they agreed to replace all the injectors with new Bosch ones. Finally got the vehicle back two weeks or so ago but something was off. The vehicle smoked terribly (a darkish grey) while idling and this continued when I was driving it. There was also a gruffness in the idling and under acceleration which wasn't there before the injectors were replaced.

Took the vehicle to a local mechanic to sort out the smoking issue, he didn't touch anything but told me that he had spoken with the agents (located 3.5 hours away) and that the injectors had to be coded. Underwriters said there's no need to code the injectors, after some arguments vehicle was placed on truck and sent to agents. They "coded" the injectors. Now the vehicle is smoking as badly under idling as before but even worse, when driving there is a LOT of constant smoke and when I let the gearbox kick back there is a tremendous amount of dark black smoke that's released in a massive cloud... Spoke to the agents who, in typical fashion, do not give a damn. They told me that the vehicle is "breathing" badly through the oil filler hole. I checked this and while there is a bit of smoke emitted under idling when the oil cap is off the vehicle never ever smoked like this until the injectors were replaced. Of course now the guy who installed the injectors is shrugging his shoulders (his mate who is a mechanic said no coding is needed) and the agents are not interested as they did install the injectors. Driving back from the agents the vehicle (on a fill-the-tank basis) gave me 6.25 km per liter, as opposed to 9.5 before...

Caveat: I am the least technical person on this site. I've seen some posts which referred to replacement of injectors, subsequent smoking and EGR valve delete being proposed. I don't know what to do next- I would like to get the vehicle fixed up to sell it with a good conscience, but at the same time I don't want to throw good money after bad. Where do I start to look for the problem?

Cheers

[bodgie]

Moved response to new thread.