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  #8  
Old 28-05-2010
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Murray, no gen set on this trip as were all travelling light. I've heard that 2.5mm rods are for 2 batteries and 3.2mm rods are for three, so I am taking both. I seem to recall a suggestion by someone once that you could make up a resistor of some kind using fencing wire and run a booster cable end along it to adjust the amps. Sounded kind of dangerous at the time.
  #9  
Old 28-05-2010
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ok i have a question.. i want to weld up the spider gears and spider gears to the carrier.......... cheep locker

my question..........should i pre heat.... if so how much... do i just use a tourch or oven?

extra info
using a 250 amp inverter mig with gas .9 wire.
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Old 29-05-2010
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ian
i have done this before on a datsun off road sedan
i used stainless weld rods
in the book how to race prepare off road racers 4 wheel drives and baja buggys
it shows the welding of spider gears and side gears to the carrier with silicon bronze not realy welding but more arc brazing
where your problem lies is all the disimilar metals and heat traeting
yuo will have to pre heat the weld area to at least 150'c
if yuo go down the mig method i would disassemble the diff
weld gears and side gears ie pad weld these units accept for were the gears mesh if you have a oven post heat and let cool down slowly
reassemble and weld the side gears into the carrier preheat with torch post heat wrap in heat blanket to cool slowly
welds to carrier to start and weld to center so 4 weld on each gear so the weld end ont op of each other ie outsides to center this will help to stop cracking at weld craters
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  #11  
Old 05-06-2010
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Hey, I’m surprised more people haven’t taken up this offer of help!
I’m currently teaching myself to weld and half way through making myself up some rock sliders.

I'm using:
Cigweld Weldskill 170 inverter
2.5mm E4112 electrodes
Electrode positive
40x40x4mm SHS
50x50x3mm SHS
43mm OD 2.9mm wall Tube

I’m welding at around 60amps, which from what i understand is quite a low current for the job?
Despite the low current, I think my welds are showing signs of being too hot?
Slag is hard to remove from the edges and some are abit sunken.
I’ve let it cool abit between welds.
Should I go lower than 60 amps?





And one of my complete stuff ups that I need to grind back.....
I’ve been having some problems welding the round tube. I'm having trouble holding the electrode steady as i rotate it around the tube.
This is the first thing i have done with any round tube so i think i might practice on some scrap pieces first.
Any general advice?


And one more that is ok as far as i can tell?


Any advice would be great.
(Rust is new, they were clean when welded, haven’t had a chance to do any work for afew weeks)
Thanks!
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Old 05-06-2010
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so far it looks good mate, the settings look alright
i thing its more technique rather than settings
are you dragging the electrode
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Old 05-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigermuzza View Post
so far it looks good mate, the settings look alright
i thing its more technique rather than settings
are you dragging the electrode
Thanks, yeah i think i may have been dragging it abit.
Try to avoid it.. yet the electrode ends up touching the workpiece every so often.
Does this cause it to be more sunken?
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Old 05-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mur View Post
Thanks, yeah i think i may have been dragging it abit.
Try to avoid it.. yet the electrode ends up touching the workpiece every so often.
Does this cause it to be more sunken?
na meant you should be dragging it,
its hard to explain in writing
just say you wanted to do a standard fillet weld
going from left to right along the plate
your electrode should be pointed a about 30 degrees to the left dragging it to the right
and there are electrodes that ya can just rest on the job instead of trying to feed it in all the time
ferracraft and ya can also do it with 16tc's

Hope that makes sense
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