What did you do to your WH/XH today?

[kx steve]

Originally Posted by Clarky

So how much hotter? The majority say the average is under half way on the gauge. During summer mine sits just over half, never considered the coolant strength as an issue before.

It always use to sit under half way at 91to 92 degrees did coolant then sat on 106 degrees.
If the coolant is to concentrated it will move alot slower through the cooling system and this will make it run hotter. Concentrated coolant is thicker than water water is the best for cooling a car. But you need the anti freeze anti boil and crossion inhibitor.
Google the net about coolant concentrate mixes.

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[WH3.0]

Intersting i have not been far in it yet but initial run of bout 40ks temp is as normal bout 87 -91 according to OBD 2 App.
I will keep an eye on it thou.
ive never had any issue before with mix strength in any of my previous cars affecting the running temp but by memory i had mixed them at the 33 as you did .
The owners manual even states 50/50 and was written on the bottle so this is why i mixed like that but thats been wrong before and most coolants say 50/50 for best anti boil an freeze temps , not that this is a huge issues here the corrosion inhibitor is most important this why i had only mixed at 33 pervious times.
But as these jeeps seem picky i thought I'd better do as it says.

Cheers for the heads up i will be Keeping an eye on it for the next few runs now

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[roscoea26]

Cost Effective Maintenance produce a cooling system treatment called RMI- 25. They say, water provides more efficient cooling that the common gylcol type coolants, which are not necessary under typical Australian conditions. Waterless coolants are generally pure glycol, and your engine will run hotter!!

RMI-25 cleans and cools by 7c or more. I've recently ordered some to try it out.

http://costeffective.com.au/product/...tem-treatment/

[WH3.0]

Originally Posted by roscoea26

Cost Effective Maintenance produce a cooling system treatment called RMI- 25. They say, water provides more efficient cooling that the common gylcol type coolants, which are not necessary under typical Australian conditions. Waterless coolants are generally pure glycol, and your engine will run hotter!!

RMI-25 cleans and cools by 7c or more. I've recently ordered some to try it out.

http://costeffective.com.au/product/...tem-treatment/

I wish i knew about this earlier , i will have to keep it in mind .
oh and keep us posted please i would love to know what you think of it.
i should have remembered these guys as i brought the FTC Diesel Decarbonizer from them (what a tool)
i like the sound of the RMI-25 thou simple easy an cheap.
cheers

[roscoea26]

I used their Flushing Oil Concentrate today I've had it for a while and was waiting to use it when the WH needed an oil change. Anyway dropped the old oil put in some new cheaper mineral oil added their concentrate and ran the engine at high idle speed revs, instead of letting the vehicle sit for the time period I took it for a slow drive on some of the tracks around where I live for 40 minutes. Was advised it was OK to do that as long as I took it slow for the time period and didn't rev it over 2000.

Anyway when I dropped the oil it was as black as I couldn't believe it after just 40 minutes.

I refilled it with top of the range Mobil 5w 40 Delvac diesel fully synthetic

It has definitely made a difference acceleration off the mark is very crisp and the temp gauge didn't get past 90c.

Going to be using it from now on during every oil change, was very impressed.

They say Designed to restore pristine cleanliness to the dirtiest of engines (diesel and petrol), Flushing Oil Concentrate has saved many thousands of diesels from expensive rebuilds.
Frees stuck piston rings
Reduces smoke, blowby & oil use
Restores compression
Solves certain engine overheating problems
Can remove “terminal” black petrol engine sludge
Dissolves hard carbon and stubborn sludge
Prevents diesel oil going black straight after a change.

Seems like it has lived up to what they reckon

I'll be using the RMI-25 sometime in the next few weeks and I let you l now how it goes.

http://costeffective.com.au/product/...l-concentrate/

[WH3.0]

Changed my Sway Bar bushes today and also replaced the links, but still have a slight clunk over larger bumps so i guess i better keep looking. was thinking it might be diff bushes but it doesn't clunk when changing into drive etc. Bloody Jeeps

[kx steve]

Originally Posted by WH3.0

Changed my Sway Bar bushes today and also replaced the links, but still have a slight clunk over larger bumps so i guess i better keep looking. was thinking it might be diff bushes but it doesn't clunk when changing into drive etc. Bloody Jeeps

I have a slight clunk as well, when I change my front struts I found the bolt what holds the strut to the A arm has about 1.5mm to 2mm play on mine and that's where my clunk is comming from. I covered the bolt shaft in Greece and put it back in and it is alot quieter. On mine it's not the bolt what's worn it's the metal coller in the rubber bush that the bolt goes in is worn out so I need new bottom arms.

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