What did you do to your XJ today? 1M Views

[2006eabbott]

Full engine service - oil/filter/plugs/air filter/leads/cap/rotor...pulled out the radiator, sealed up a water pump leak, flushed radiator, news radiator cap and coolant...

New upper and lower ball joints (don't ask me why I only had three on the shelf! I had to order one!), replaced both lower control arms, front rotors and pads, new rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders..

Serviced the auto trans, topped up the diffs, greased all round.

Wired up a float camera so I can watch the neddies while we are rocketing down the highway lol!

BTW that took three days but we had to wait for some parts Old girl is good to go for another 365 000kms!

Feeling slightly smug about my old chooks fuel consumption though - if I keep my foot out of the loud pedal I can get 500-550kms out of a tank of 75L - but she is on fumes when we pull into the servo

Of course when I am towing the float you can neatly halve that hehehe!! Kinda funny on the highway when you are streaking past new Cruisers and Pajeros towing caravans with a fully loaded float in a 22 year old Jeep Jeep, she barely feels the float!

XJ all the way

[vernicious]

Was running on fumes on my way to the gas station. It acted like I ran out of fuel and the pickup was only getting little bits of fuel. I barely made it to the station, filled up and it was good to go... Or so I thought... Went to the airport to pick my kids up and it died on me on the way. This time I only had about 1/4 tank... Couldn't be low fuel again could it? Picked them up and it died about 6 more times on the way home (about 20 miles). Filled up again and it died about a mile from the house. Turns out the CPS was shot. Picked one up from the stealership and haven't had a problem for 3 weeks now!

[awg]

re-instated the stock water temp sender, as the electronic one had for some unknown reason began reading ~20C low

is it just me, or is that sender a mongrel to get tight?

I broke the ceramic top off the last one, a socket or ring spanner wont fit, even a stubby open-end, the jaws interfere with rocker cover

in the end i just work it around a tiny bit at a time from above with open end spanner..one slip and the top can be cracked off

with 88C Thermostat, she runs below 100C most of the time, unless idling or under heavy load gets to ~105

[HamishW96]

Originally Posted by awg

with 88C Thermostat, she runs below 100C most of the time, unless idling or under heavy load gets to ~105

This is what Ive been running since I did my rad, works brilliantly and even keeps it cool whilst wheelin' hard

[jaffazoom]

Just did the coil packs on my 2001 xj.
Started running rough occasionally on 5 cylinders off and on.
Then the other day it would only run on 5 and even 4.
Checked compression all ok so swapped in another coil pack and all good again.
Strange thing is that the 3 coils in the pack fire 2 cylinders each. Would have though it would drop to 4 cylinders not 5, anyway all good now. Seems to not run rough when you restart within 10 minutes of turning off when hot.
Coil pack must have been playing up when it was heat soaked.

[awg]

drilled out the spot welds and cut out this perfectly good slice of rear roofline just to show youse what it looks like



sucked in!

thats a matching piece I removed from a wrecked black XJ sometime ago, when I bought mine from a wrecker, I picked the best one he had, checking carefully for rust, this was the only spot I could find.

it is obscured with the tailgate in place, but with the tailgate fully removed, of course I found a gaping rusty hole, shit design with a sharp valley to retain moisture and dirt.

anyway, I will carefully shape that piece of metal bitch, cant mig steel to air, 2pac primer, should be good, will cold gal everything, and find a way to spray fishoil on the backside, even if i make a drilled hole and fill it after

probably wise to check your vehicle in this area

[awg]

after completing the above metal & paint repair, and getting back on the road, now turned my attention to more "rear-end" repairs, kind of related

I delaminated a tyre at 90kmph, and was lucky to avoid a serious accident, as the rear end partially locked, inducing a fishtail

I knew the flailing steel belt layer of the tyre had inflicted some damage to the underbody of the Jeep, and today, I thoroughly inspected the area, and now realize why the wheel was "braking" so much!

the force of the steel belt hammering upon the underside like a hammer has torn about 5 spot welds off the inner rear fender panel from the floor panel, deflecting a section of floor panel upwards about 1"...opening a 8" x 3" "gash"

the force has also been directed rearwards & upwards, slightly bending the lowest part of the D-pillar, and breaking the 4 spot welds that hold the D-pillar to the floor!..I can actually pry my D-pillar upward lol

I dont think the 4 spot welds here would have broken except for there is some corrosion crept under the D-pillar/floor panel join, due to moisture, this appears to have taken place over quite a few years.

I now know my vehicle played in sand, as there are some hidden pockets when you take all apart..the sand is non-local grains,
( I know my vehicle originated in Rockingham WA)

All this sounds a bit horrible, but it is repairable, only need to cut & weld a few small pieces, will rivet & seam seal as well, will be almost like factory, certainly way better than now

this is turning into a shipwrights disease situation
will post some pics





top and bottom views of the damage...I can also see the lower guard has taken a really hard hit separate to this damage.
I cant see any easy way to pull the big dent

seems someone has been in here before me..The D-post is now completely separated from the floor, by drilling out 2 X MIG PLUG welds, AND the lower D-post has green paint. I thought for sure factory would be spot welds ?

anyway, I only have to weld in 3 small patches, but making sure everything is structural and wont rust again, or leak water, takes care