XJ Mods VSB 14

[alexbrown64]

Popped down to the bearing shop this morning and picked up the 35x55x20 bearing for $35. Stopped in at Repco and bought the shorter fan belt as well. They are a bit of a rip off, but if it doesnt fit, its easy to take back and swap out.
Pic below showing all the parts ready to reassemble. I cleaned up the pulleys and knocked in the new bearings. I cleaned up the A/C clutch assembly and knocked in the new bearing. You can see the circlip and shims in the pic. My a/c is still fitted to the car. I also have my transmission cooler down there. So i had to work in the space between the cooler and a/c compressor under the car. Had to jam something in the slots in the clutch plate to stop it rotating while i undid the 14mm nut (which is not tight). Then prize the plate off gently. Behind the plate is two shims and the cirlip. Remove them and prize off the pulley. Replace pulley bearing and reassemble.



My new transfer case chain arrived this morning. Its the proper BorgWarner chain and looks a lot better than the Cloyes chain.
Still waiting on new seals, and then it will be time to reassemble the case and refit it. Its not a really big or hard job. I just want make sure its done properly first time with good parts.



I am going to look at the wiring on the alternator this afternoon. I am looking at some longer wiring as the alt sits higher in the engine bay, and also going to thicker gauge wire. 4awg is what i am guessing for the cable between the alt and battery.

Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

The XJ OBD1 alternator wiring is convoluted. The B+ power wire from the back of the alternator wire is only 8AWG wire. It runs from the alternator through a harness and splits into two smaller wires that enter the back of the Power Distribution Center (PDC). These wires run through two 60A fuses and then to the battery.
I am going to completely delete those wires and fuses. In its place, i will run a single 4AWG wire with a 150A ANL directly from the B+ alternator connection to the PDC power post. This power post then has another cable to the battery. I will also upgrade and lengthen the earth lead from the alternator to the engine.



Most of the stuff was bought from Jaycar in Australia. They had run out of connectors, so i went to Supercheap Auto. They wanted $30 for 4. What a rip off. Ended up going to Bursons for those. The 4AWG wire is rated for 150 Amps, and so is the ANL fuse. The new Alternator is 136A. I will mount the new fuse holder on the firewall somewhere.



Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Alternator is now in. It fitted up really well. I also refitted the clutch with the new bearing on the A/C. I tried fitting the new 6pk2275 belt. No way would it fit. Perhaps its the new bigger alternator, but it is a whisker too small. I made a slice through my old belt and ran it around the pulleys, then taped it up so it was all snug. Then i took it off and measured it. Its coming in at 2300. I rang the shop and they have a new 6pk2300 in stock, which is just 25mm longer. I will swap it tomorrow.
Pic below of it finally in position. It sits much higher than the old version.



I then cracked on with the wiring. I made up new earth and power cables and installed the ANL 150A fuse holder. More pics tomorrow when its all fitted up and the belt is on. I spun the old alternator pulley and its as noisy as hell. So even though this upgrade has been a pain, its resolved a few issues with noise and accessory power.

One job coming up is the rear disc brake upgrade. I just had a small look at the job today in preparation. I bought the backing plates, calipers and proportioning valve from the States. They are off a ZG Dana 35.
I stripped the calipers down, degreased them and painted them in a high heat engine silver with clear coat.
The phenolic piston in each caliper was cracked. I have the seal rebuild kits, but had to jump on RockAuto and order some. Great price at $6 U.S each plus only $10 shipping. They should be like new with the new pistons, seal kits, bleed nipples and a paint job.

The backing plates were cleaned up and painted in gloss black caliper paint.
After they were dry, i fitted new emergency brake pad kits with new hardware.. they were a pain to fit.

I have had new EBC rotors sitting around for ages now waiting on this job. They slipped perfectly over the rebuilt backing plates.



The brake upgrade has been well planned out and should fit up really well. I am fitting new ZG tone rings and ABS cables. I have the correct hand brake cables and not doing the dodgy bulldog clip modification.

This mod will be happening after the transfer case is put back together and i can do a few test runs after all the work that has been going on.

Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

It took two more trips to Repco before i had the right belt.
The 2300 fitted, but used up 3/4 of the adjustment.
The perfect fitting belt was a 6pk2290. The adjustment is perfect and it all fits well.
I fitted up all the wiring and it came up pretty good. I do need some flexible cable protector to fit over some of the wiring.

Pic below shows the rear of the upgraded 136A alternator. The black box on the back, contrary to what some believe, is not a voltage regulator (thats managed in the computer). Its just a cable tidy system. I chopped the earth away from it, and now i just have the green wires fitted. You can see the new black earth and red power cables i made.



Pic below is how i mounted the 150A ANL fuse. I fitted the fuse block to the bracket that holds the rad overflow bottle on. The cable then continues on and goes to the front of the PDC.




Final pic below is of the completed system. New 6pk2290 fitted and tensioned. New power cables fitted. You can also see my triple fan setup.



Thats it for the alt upgrade and a/c bearing change out. I wont start the car up for a while yet, as the exhaust is still disconnected where i have been doing all the mods underneath.

When i get the transfer case in, it will be a case of making final adjustments and checking everything over.
If you go back through the thread, i have been having major trouble with binding and vibrating drive shafts (Brand new Olivers HD shafts).
I looked at them today, as i have figured out the problem and now have the parts. The problem was in the aftermarket ball that was used in the cardon part of the shaft. I have two new Spicer balls and will do a write up on the articulation between the two types of balls and why the aftermarket ones cause so many problems.

Cheers,

[oldon]

Yellow rocker cover looks good. Is the top hose rubbing on the pips underneath? or just the camera angle? Nice work alex.

[alexbrown64]

I dont think the silicon top hose is rubbing oldon.. but its all pretty tight under there. I will check it out and add some protection where needed.

I painted the rocker cover a few years ago when i took the head off and did the welch plugs. I have fitted one of those blue Felpro reusable rocker cover gaskets. Doesn't leak or weep. In fact, i have started using the high end Felpro gaskets such as on the sump, and they are brilliant. I have ordered a couple of LubeLocker reusable diff cover gaskets. I have been using black RTV and they always seem to weep.

I can just about see the horizon on the Jeep project. Although it will never end, the major mods are slowly getting ticked off. Once the T/C case is in, the drive shafts rebuilt with new center balls, the rear discs fitted and the new cb radio/engine watchdog pod fitted.. i am hoping she will become my daily driver.
Looking forward to it!! and joining a 4WD club and hitting some trails..

Pic below of some of the goodies i am fitting to the interior. Also putting a new Kenwood double din stereo in. Sick of the Chinese one, as radio reception is crap, it looses memory etc..



Thats it on the project again for a few weeks as cyclone is over and am getting flown back to work..

Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Bit of a cheeky double post here. I just answered another forum members question on fitting a double din stereo in the pre-update XJ. So, i thought i would add it into my XJ thread as well for any one interested in doing the mod.

Its easy with a dremel and a bit of gumption....

You can fit a double din head unit to your 95 XJ.
All head units are the same width, but double din units are 100mm high instead of 50mm.
To do this you need a 100mm height space and a bit more room behind the old stereo and heater controls.



To do this, you have to make a square hole in the bottom vent so that the lump in the bottom of the middle vent controllers can drop down into. I cut the hole, made a tin drop down box and then used silver foil tape to seal it. So the bottom vent now had a void that would let the middle panel drop down into. Once done, just lower your middle section control panel down and hard up against the vent panel. Every millimeter is precious....



The depth has to be sorted as well, as the head unit will not go back far enough. I had to trim the air vent tubes at the back of the dash. The vent tubes blow air up onto the screen for defrosting.



You then use the foil to tape up the now thinner tubing at the back..
This gives you just enough room to fit a new double din stereo and wiring..



You then end up with the result below. I have tried various chines all in one stereos. I have had the ones with GPS maps, reverse camera, dvd etc.. and all do the job but are still a bit junky. Sound quality suffers, radio reception etc.



I have a new stereo ready to go in. Its a Kenwood. Has all the fruit except maps. I am going to start using my phone, mounted in the car for that anyway.



The pod mounted in the pic is just a trial of what i eventually will be doing. The pod will have a vacuum gauge, engine watchdog and cb radio. I will do the pod and head unit all at the same time in the next few months.

The good news is that my seals for the Tcase arrived. I just need some time to get a wiggle on and start the assembly.
Hopefully next few days..

Cheers,