Lift and Tyres of your JK

[Hally]

Originally Posted by jktom

What is a castor Correction Kit - Cam bolts. If that is the case, you may not need arms for castor. How long are your shocks - this may help you decide whether control arms may give you more flex? But I have heard that AEV kits flex as good as any, and they use standard control arms?

i think the shocks are the normal ones u get with the kit not the long travell ones.

are the long travells just a londer shock?

cheers Hally

[double black offroad]

Ive got brake relo brackets and extended brake lines in stock if you want em.

[SeaComms]

I just looked up the vehicle data sheet (NSW RTA Vehicle Descriptor linked to in another thread) to see what its all about. Read over the height figures and got curious so raced out the front to measure mine.

The stats for the 2 door JK com in at 525mm front and 563mm rear, measured from the centre of the wheels to the lip of the mudguard, for both Petrol and Diesel variants.

Mine, an 8 week 2000 km old 2 door with just installed mopar 2in springs comes in at 583 front and 572 rear. So the figures that the data sheets are based on seem to be quite strange. Means mine that sits pretty level is actually 47mm lifted front and only 9mm lifted rear! Go figure!!

[tdwrangler]

I think JKs are a little "nose down" in stock form. I put in a 3/4" spacer up front to even things out, particularly after the bar and winch were installed.

BTW, I had the mopar lift installed yesterday. I haven't done any measurements but it looks like a fraction more than 2" to me. And its a firmer ride, but I think it actually handles better than before as a result. Less bouncy. The mechanic left the 3/4" spacers in the front. I think the front is a fraction higher than the back (very similar to Seacomm's pic) but I'd say that without the spacers it would be a fraction nose-down, so happy to leave them in.

Very happy with it over all.

oh, and the reason the rear springs look a bit strange is because they are variable rate springs. The Mopar replacements are just standard single rate springs. Which is probably another reason for their firmer ride.

[tdwrangler]

Can anyone here who has re-cerntred the steering wheel after putting their lift in provide some hints on how this is done? If its easy to do yourself I'll do that but otherwise I guess I could just drop into a tyre place and get them to do a quick alignment...

[tdwrangler]

Originally Posted by SeaComms

I just looked up the vehicle data sheet (NSW RTA Vehicle Descriptor linked to in another thread) to see what its all about.

http://ols2.rta.nsw.gov.au/rvd/searc...bmitValue=view

On a slightly different topic, it mentions that the wheels for the JK are 7.5" in width and have an offset of +44mm. Am I calculating this wrong or does that equate to a Backspace of 5.5"? For ages I had been under the impression the stock wheel BS was more like 6.25". If it is just 5.5" then that means going to a 5" BS after market rim would not exceed the 50mm allowable increase in track width... This is something that has kept me from getting a set of steelies for my JK for a while...

I just did a rough calc though so may be wrong...

7.5" = 187.5mm
centrepoint of rim = 93.75mm
+44mm offset = 137.75mm from inner edge of rim
137.75mm from inside of rim = 5.51" BS

Is that the correct calculation?

[SeaComms]

As far as I am aware that is correct calculations. Are you looking at keeping the 7 & 1/2 in width though? If you went 8in with a 5in backspace for example, thats 1/2 inch each side track increase for the backspace alone, then another 1/4 inch each side for the additional 1/2 wider rim. This is still only 1 & 1/2 in wider track so you would still be inside the limits.

As for recentreing the steering - very simple once you know how.

Drive in a straight line and see where the wheel sits. Park the vehicle with the steering wheel in this position, so that the wheels are on firm ground in the straight ahead position.

Crawl under the front and you will see the link from the steering box to the front left wheel. There is a rotating sleeve with two pinch bolts in the middle of it, loosen the two pinch bolts and rotate the sleeve, one way will will shorten the arm, the other way will lengthen. It doesnt require much, from memory the top of my steering wheel was about 5 or 6 cm to the right. 3/4 of a turn of the sleeve on the steering arm was all that was required to bring it back to dead on on mine. So just rotate it one way then have a look at the steering wheel. If its spot on, lock up the pinch bolts. If not, then just rotate it a bit more, a bit less or the other way as applicable to get the steering wheel to sit straight.