JK Disconnects... JKS

[RyanG]

went and looked again and i must have miss read it, it appears to be a F4-BE5-2724-HO.

i have searched that on Bilsteins website and cant find anything there either. also looks as though it is the same shock they use in BMW 318i's lol

[RyanG]

when i connect these JKS dissconnects up should i be setting them at a certain height? would i just set the swaybar so it is sitting roughly level?

[jktom]

Undo the lower mount, let the shock extend then measure it. Macquarie used these shocks with the OME coils as the OME shocks were not long enough for a 2.5 to 3" lift, however are now using the OME shocks again, as the OME lift is now a true 2" lift. I understand they are around 24", they were customer valved by Bilstein for Macquarie.

I also hear that OME will be releasing a MID length shock for the JK soon, somewhere around the 25" mark.

Originally Posted by RyanG

what do you mean? all i can find is that sticker on the side, the kit was installed by macquarie 4x4 in sydney.

I cant seem to find any info on the net regarding that part number.... is there another number on the shock which will help?

[Yom]

Originally Posted by SeaComms

Yeah, thats what I found too - no info with that part number... Curious as to how long they are, as this will detirmine if you need longer lines or not. If you cant find the info, just jack it up and watch the lines as it droops. My shocks (Rubicon Express) are 55mm longer front and 60mm longer rear. The front lines were fine at full droop, but the rears were too short so I had to make an extension to the chassis bracket.

In the front you also need to check brake lines when at full lock. Stock lines can be OK at droop with very long shocks but get tight when you turn to full lock. So check that too.

Originally Posted by RyanG

when i connect these JKS dissconnects up should i be setting them at a certain height? would i just set the swaybar so it is sitting roughly level?

You want to adjust the swaybar to be level with the chassis rail or be pointing slightly up. I would suggest you set the length of the drivers side first as it sits a bit lower than the left hand side. Then set the passenger side length. You don't want the swaybar to be pre-loaded at ride height.

[RyanG]

Originally Posted by Yom

In the front you also need to check brake lines when at full lock. Stock lines can be OK at droop with very long shocks but get tight when you turn to full lock. So check that too.


You want to adjust the swaybar to be level with the chassis rail or be pointing slightly up. I would suggest you set the length of the drivers side first as it sits a bit lower than the left hand side. Then set the passenger side length. You don't want the swaybar to be pre-loaded at ride height.

Thanks for the info mate. I noticed the drivers side was a touch lower....

I need to now get longer linkages for the rear swaybar as it is still running the stock ones and is pointing downwards. Are there rear disco's? Is it worth disconnecting?

Thanks again guys.

[Yom]

My opinion is that here's benefits in wheel travel and traction but sacrifices in stability. The heavier your vehicle the more the swaybars are needed. I wouldn't run without a rear swaybar on a 4 door or a loaded/heavy 2 door.

[SeaComms]

Na, some run without them, but I think that really depends on the springs. With the RE springs I am running now I woulodnt like to run without the rear.

Was on an offcamber section of track the other day and felt like I wanted to climb out the window to make sure it didnt tip over... Without the rear swaybar I think I could have been in trouble.

Only problem with longer rear links is they may foul with the wheel, so you flip them to the inside - but then I found they fouled on the chassis... This was with the RE longer rear links. I took them off and replaced them with some PP adjustable ones, though they were too long too (rated at 2 to 5in) so I ended up trimming 40mm off them. The tops use a much thinner design so I no longer have issues with them fouling on the tyres.

This was the RE's flipped to the inside to clear the wheels:


This is the PP ones after shortening by 40mm: