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07-07-2023
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Rock Munki
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Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: West Coast SA
Posts: 2,398 What Jeep do I drive?: WK
Likes: 2,161
Liked 1,315 Times in 756 Posts
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Did a quick utube search.....GDL Auto has a full vid on the job and a fella tagged 'broken wrench garage' does the engine out without removing much at all...he's a bit vague but the 'tuff bits' he explains 'ok'....GDL drop it out the bottom attached to suspension member....broken wrench takes it out 'old skool' using an engine hoist....less dismantling involved.
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WK2 MY13 CRD LIMITED
Only dumb people think their smart...rest of us learn everyday
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08-07-2023
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Full Flexer
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Mornington
Posts: 502 What Jeep do I drive?: WK2
Likes: 4
Liked 371 Times in 210 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PITA
I did try to turn over the motor but not a thing from the starter motor. Are there any interlocks to do with coolant or anything else, also it is stuck in Park. I need to fire it up before any attempt is made to remove the engine and on that subject,
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I'd be putting a socket & ratchet on the front of the crankshaft & rotating through 360 deg a few times by hand to confirm it's free to rotate before engaging the starter motor/attempting an engine start. Nothing worse than trying to force rotate an unknown engine in a damaged vehicle using the starter motor.
Cheers
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08-07-2023
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Established Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Maryborough Qld
Posts: 237 What Jeep do I drive?: WK2
Likes: 53
Liked 25 Times in 19 Posts
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To remove the engine from the top requires lower section of sump to be removed, also front diff and suspension, I did a change thru the top complete with trans, xfer case and dpf, easy if radiator and A/C condensor removed, still need to drop the front diff tho.
If you have access to a 2 post hoist, dropping the front cradle with engine and trans is easy, no regassing of A/C, unbolt the compressor and hold clear, either way the air vent and padded section covering the firewall need to come out to improve access.
Crank the engine by bridging the starter relay, if it turns over then,
the engine may not crank in the normal way if the brakes are not working, brake signal for starting comes from the ABS pressure not the pedal switch, the start relay can be bridged to bypass this problem, turn on the ignition and jump the relay, should fire up
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09-07-2023
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I just registered
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Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Kilmore Vic
Posts: 18 What Jeep do I drive?: WK2
Likes: 0
Liked 19 Times in 8 Posts
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Ok thanks again, as far as a "G" force relay that is another issue in that I need to get a good Workshop manual for wiring diagrams and none of the air bags were deployed. I see Haynes has an online manual but you have to specify the engine when you pay, so I can't get the WK 2014 and the WK2 2019 at the same time. I really prefer to have the printed copy as well as the download or disc versions, the printed is so much easier to use at the vehicle without the fear of dropping the laptop. I have looked at a few of the GDL Youtube clips and they look good but not anything yet about the engine swap. Also when the car arrived, I tried the gearbox release lever, it is operated but the gearbox didn't go into Neutral. So now I just need a good workshop manual and hopefully get an update for my analyser and watch a heap of Youtube videos
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09-07-2023
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I just registered
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Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Kilmore Vic
Posts: 18 What Jeep do I drive?: WK2
Likes: 0
Liked 19 Times in 8 Posts
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Sorry I missed the most recent advice, TR Laredo's advice is something I had not considered as everything looks good, although it is something I will do 1st to be on the safe side. Once I know it is free to rotate, I can try bridging the relay.
The removal of the donor engine would be relatively easy as the Intercooler, AC condensor and radiator are all shot, so just have to remove the top part of the radiator support panel and straight out through the front. But removing and re-installing the engine from the "Keeper" I can only take out the radiator.
I do like "old school", I can take out my 351C from my 92 F truck in less than 3 hours and just did a Suby Forester last week in no time.
55zed, I did see on one of the videos I watched about dropping the whole subframe/chassis looked a bit daunting in that If I do it on the donor then I have to put everytning back so I can get it out of the shed to bring in the "Keeper" and do it allover again.
I better start watching some of the suggested videos, thanks everyone for the help
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10-07-2023
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MonsterMoose
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: QLD
Age: 70
Posts: 8,857 What Jeep do I drive?: WK2
Likes: 4,402
Liked 3,931 Times in 2,320 Posts
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The only genuine workshop manual I have found is an online version, in PDF, its a pain to read but if you print out the sections you want then it becomes a workable, still a pain though.............
__________________
2015 WK2 CRD Laredo( ZG, WG 2.7 )
Your Never Too Old To Learn Something Stupid.
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21-08-2023
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I just registered
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Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Kilmore Vic
Posts: 18 What Jeep do I drive?: WK2
Likes: 0
Liked 19 Times in 8 Posts
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continuation of the WK2 saga
After the previous advice I was able to start the write off Jeep from the Auctions, removed the starter relay and just bridged the relay's contact slots and started immediately, ran smooth and no smoke. So then set about rigging up a radiator, had a spare one from my F150 that had a weep but good enough so I could put a flush through the Jeep engine both oil and water. Had it all set up about 10 days ago, ran for a few minutes 1st to try to get the gearbox into neutral which didn't work anyway. Decided to leave it for a few days as it was freezing here ( I wanted to do all this outside so there would not be a mess in the shed) the night before I was going to do the flushes I went outside to get some firewood and found the Jeep on fire! My wife and I were able to put the fire out with garden hoses but there was extensive damage to the engine bay, all the ancillary parts that I was either going to sell or keep for spares are gone. When you consider the cost of genuine headlights all that is left is a little puddle of plastic with traces of glass and blobs of metal, the fire was intense enough to melt the bonnet, metal pipes, burn most of the hoses, all the electrics in the engine bay and wreck the AC comp and Alternator. It is amazing how much plastic is used in the modern engine bays and how difficult it is to remove. Now i have to decide if it is worth keeping this engine, I still have all the bolt on stuff from the blown engine, I know it runs ok but I just can't flush it 1st like I wanted and it is going to be a dirty job cleaning. I have located a couple of engines with 80-90,000 Ks on them but they are in the $11-13K price while I have got a price of AU$5k in the US with only 32000m =55000Ks just trying to sort the freight Currently at AU$5K and hoping I can get it a lot cheaper. besides all that, I am not sure what is causing the gearbox to be locked, the release cable in the console has been pulled up but it still seems to locked in park. Since the fire I can not use the Analyser but amazingly the electric seats still work. I wanted to add a few photos for interest but could not see where to do it. Any thoughts on what I am thinking in regard to the options for the engines, also prior to the fire I had been considering upgrading the Turbo, there is a seller on Ebay as well as Alibaba as well as a catch can, now that my Warranty will be blown too.
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