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  #10  
Old 08-12-2013
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Originally Posted by bruggz351 View Post
Ok, kyphonii, forgive my ignorance, but will the alloy withstand the pressures of use at the mountings for the upper shock mount and spring/shackle mounts??

ie, it wont be too soft and wear quickly?

cheers
I've worked on the front spring mount not rotating very much as the spring movement at the bolt is very small. The rear mounts have very large stainless washers between the alloy and any moving rubber bush or sleeve. I will be putting a stainless plate 100mm x100mm on one side of the front spring mount. The plate will be bolted to the alloy and the spring bolt head locked to this plate.
The Shockys don't put as much load as the spring mounts. The Shockys bolts also don't rotate. I keep an eye on them but it takes me about 1/2 hour to repair if they appear to wear.
The con rod in a race engine are alloy of the same alloy type. They don't stretch out.
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  #11  
Old 14-12-2013
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So far the trailer is 120kg aluminium and 180 kg wheels axles and springs.
Heavier than expected.
Has any one got a tare on there 4x4 trailer.
This one is nearly 8'6 x 6'.
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Old 05-01-2014
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'm wiring up the trailer, electric brakes are my issue.
This trailer needs to be able to be towed by others as it will some times head out bush with one crew and end up coming back with another.
I have run two 15 amp fused wires to the vehicle side of a 12 pin flat plug. One line is powered all the time the other has a relay switched on when the ignition is on.
I have take power to the electric brake controller off the trailer side of the 12 pin plug.
I have taken the brake signal wire of the trailer side of the plug.
This runs back in to the cab via a portable 5 meter 4 core cable.
So the idea is that the other tow vehicles will just run the portable controller back to the drivers area via the tail gate or window.
So The other tow vehicle will not have the 12V power line running in to the brake controller, How to supply 12v.
The trailer will have a battery on board to run fridges and the like, I could tap in to that line. How to charge that battery?
What dramas will I have is there is a big amp draw from my tow vehicle drawing back from the trailer battery via the 15amp wire?
Any thoughts or criticisms greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-01-2014
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A mate of mine had his car trailer setup in a very similar way except he had a length of heavy twin core from trailer to controller then another length of twin from controller with alligator clips to go to the vehicle battery.
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Old 05-01-2014
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A mate of mine had his car trailer setup in a very similar way except he had a length of heavy twin core from trailer to controller then another length of twin from controller with alligator clips to go to the vehicle battery.

I could use the cig lighter and earth at the trailer


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Old 05-01-2014
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You sure could but cig lighters can't be trusted in my opinion. And if any number of vehicles might be called upon to tow it would be safer to run straight to battery to prevent any unforeseen electrical damage to other vehicles.
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Old 05-01-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiserfied View Post
You sure could but cig lighters can't be trusted in my opinion. And if any number of vehicles might be called upon to tow it would be safer to run straight to battery to prevent any unforeseen electrical damage to other vehicles.
Agreed, Cig light power is not an option.
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Old 05-01-2014
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My personal choice would be a stand alone setup due to the fact you know that it will be towed by other vehicles which will not support your design. Gives the other drivers a very simple setup and less reason to stuff around with it.
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  #18  
Old 05-01-2014
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My personal choice would be a stand alone setup due to the fact you know that it will be towed by other vehicles which will not support your design. Gives the other drivers a very simple setup and less reason to stuff around with it.

We are looking at the on board battery to power the brakes, that still leaves us trying to recharge the battery. Any cable connecting the vehicle battery with the trailer battery will need a diode to stop current running back to the main on high draw.


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