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  #15  
Old 26-08-2014
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Seems its the luck of the draw, my Synergy ones have last 40k and will need replacing before I see the JK on in about 4 months.

The 09 JKU I have just purchased has had them replaced at 99k for the RWC by Cricks and its the first set that have been put on this Jeep according to the previous owner, when these go ill replace them with American Alloy ones and see how well they hold up.

Good work on getting them under warranty Greg id take the std balljoints as you may get another set out of them in another 17k
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  #16  
Old 26-08-2014
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Hey Greg thats a good outcome.
We all like to bag the dealers but I have only had good experiences with Sunco at Maroochydore as well. They have never argued and always carried out warranty repairs as required. I was happy to let them fit OE balljoints and see how they last.
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  #17  
Old 27-08-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotdognz View Post
Seems its the luck of the draw, my Synergy ones have last 40k and will need replacing before I see the JK on in about 4 months.

The 09 JKU I have just purchased has had them replaced at 99k for the RWC by Cricks and its the first set that have been put on this Jeep according to the previous owner, when these go ill replace them with American Alloy ones and see how well they hold up.

Good work on getting them under warranty Greg id take the std balljoints as you may get another set out of them in another 17k
40k out of the synergy ones?!?

I have those installed and hope to get more than that out if them, they've been in for 30k and seem good so far. How often did you grease them?
  #18  
Old 27-08-2014
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The synergy ones will self destruct without grease... But should last a VERY long time if you keep the grease up to them.
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  #19  
Old 27-08-2014
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[quote=humdingerslammer;1488247]
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrench View Post
Aah Greg you just wanted to outdo me. My balljoints were replaced at 19k under warranty after
I hwd DW at 17k and found play at the 18k service. I dont have a problem with making Jeep do them under warranty but will use aftermarket next time when out of warranty.

Dont waste your money on alignment untill the BJs are checked/replaced.

IMO too many people obsess about the trackbar bolts. They are only an issue if not tight.[/QUOTE

Err... ok but.... my track bolts r really really really tight against the TBar bracket but when the test is done there is an incredible amount of play "inside" the track bar bracket/"housing" end which is occurring because the thread on the OE bolt has been worn and this has created an awful amount of play. When the thread is completely worn, this will create at least 4mm of slack between the bolt and the walls of the TB ring thru which the bolt goes.

It is for this reason, regardless of the tightness of the bolt, that the bolt should be changed to 9/16th which is a perfect fit. The shank of the holy inside the housing should be blank/threadless, to prevent the same problem recurring...Your view about the TB bolts as a cause of DW goes against the knowledge of many who have had to deal with the problem. I am about to have mine changed (Synergy adjustable tB to be installed).

I am also changing all the drag link and tie rod ends/ball joints since they probably need changing after 165000km.
IMHO Trackbar bolts are THE MOST important contributing factor to DW, any lateral movement is orders of magnitude bad. As soon as there is movement then you get ovaled holes from the (crap) fully threaded OEM bolts.
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  #20  
Old 28-08-2014
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[quote=Laz;1488762]
Quote:
Originally Posted by humdingerslammer View Post

IMHO Trackbar bolts are THE MOST important contributing factor to DW, any lateral movement is orders of magnitude bad. As soon as there is movement then you get ovaled holes from the (crap) fully threaded OEM bolts.
Agree.
And regardless of whether you believe it is a prime cause of DW or not, the simple fact is that a fully threaded bolt through a bush or similar situation is plain wrong.
I don't know how OEMs get away with it.
Also this bolt thing has just about been done to death.
Just one example which comes to mind is the recent "Bump & pull when braking (breaking)" thread. Plenty others as well.
Keep bringing the subject up, a lot of good opinions, but no results.
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  #21  
Old 28-08-2014
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Had the Track bar, drag link and tie rod changed over yesterday. Not a skerrick of movement at the track bar at all!! Prior, I reckon 5mm or more back and forth... quite a lot anyway. Synergy adjustable TB now in place and Mopar other bits with 9/16th" bolts used instead of fully threaded OE ones. Will see how it all goes as time passes re the DW thing. I bought the 9/16th bolts from a nut and bolt place for about $25 for 10 including spring washers and nylock nuts. 3" (75mm) long r perfect.
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