Bang Crunch

[ren0vator]

Driving home from up north yesterday arvo happy in my cool air-conditioned Jeep when ...
temp gauge goes crazy and steam from under the bonnet

Luckily I managed to roll into Tully and stop at a servo
found this piece of crud plastic on the rear left of the engine
(That's only half of it)


No problem I thought, simply fold the longer piece of hose from the back of the engine up to EGR valve.
It'll all be good.
Tip always fill up a hot engines cooling system whilst the engine is running and add water slowly.
And off we go.
About 3 minutes south and on comes the engine light and she shuts down the engine
Temperature gauge is fine.
Plenty of fuel pressure.
Engine cranks but it's pinging it's head off.
So obviously it's all too hot somewhere inside.

Wait 10 mins, she fires up, so back north again into Tully.
Sunday and everything is shut.
Luckily the hardware shop was still open.
Managed to grab some reinforced pressurised hose 19mm inside diameter.
Back to the servo and ....

The small hose that ran from the T-piece back up to the coolant reservoir is actually an air bleed.
(CRD cooling systems are self bleeding )
We were watching a ton of air trapped inside the clear hose.
So we coiled it up revved the engine around 2K with the pressurised cap off,
until all the air bubbles had disappeared.
Ended up looking like this


Back home safe now, journey took a little longer than expected.
Who says computers are shite? This one just saved me an engine rebuild.

So my question is now, what is the best portable code scanner for the CRD?

Cheers

[Clarky]

From all reports Blue Driver works with the CRD.

[07commander]

Originally Posted by ren0vator

Driving home from up north yesterday arvo happy in my cool air-conditioned Jeep when ...
temp gauge goes crazy and steam from under the bonnet

Luckily I managed to roll into Tully and stop at a servo
found this piece of crud plastic on the rear left of the engine
(That's only half of it)


No problem I thought, simply fold the longer piece of hose from the back of the engine up to EGR valve.
It'll all be good.
Tip always fill up a hot engines cooling system whilst the engine is running and add water slowly.
And off we go.
About 3 minutes south and on comes the engine light and she shuts down the engine
Temperature gauge is fine.
Plenty of fuel pressure.
Engine cranks but it's pinging it's head off.
So obviously it's all too hot somewhere inside.

Wait 10 mins and back north again into Tully.
Sunday and everything is shit.
Luckily the hardware shop was still open.
Managed to grab some reinforced pressurised hose 19mm inside diameter.
Back to the servo and ....

The small hose that ran from the T-piece back up to the coolant reservoir is actually an air bleed.
(CRD cooling systems are self bleeding )
We were watching a ton of air trapped inside the clear hose.
So we coiled it up revved the engine around 2K with the pressurised cap off,
until all the air bubbles had disappeared.
Ended up looking like this


Back home safe now, journey took a little longer than expected.
Who says computers are shite? This one just saved me an engine rebuild.

So my question is now, what is the best portable code scanner for the CRD?

Cheers

Autel 519 scan tool or Foxwell do one that you get one manufacturer with it and then i think its about $90 per manufacturer you want to add.
Not to sure which would be the better of the 2 as i have been looking at getting one of the two but i don't have a great understanding of them.

[ren0vator]

Turns out Jeep wants to sell the whole 4 metres of heater plumbing


Onto the lathe at work with some aluminium bar
As a plus; the two main pipes are 19mm diameter now
Who really wants a 19mm to 15mm adapter hose?
(apart from Jeep engineers )


Not that I need a heater up here
But it's all good now

[ren0vator]

Whilst I had the tools out I finally got around to mounting a radio aerial on the bullbar.
Sourced from Radio Parts;
Spring Mount, Aerial=M3W, Cable: 3M RG62 & a couple of solderless connectors.
I chose the M3W because it will be slightly higher than the roof line.
Same height as the CB aerial which is a tad over 2 metres from the ground.
Safely navigate under ground car parks.



Remove the rubber mount, desolder the RG58 and solder the RG62 onto the threaded connection.
The cable clamp is also the earth point.
So mounting the aerial on the bullbar required scratching some paint to get a good earth.
Routing the cable inside the cabin I found an existing hole in the firewall, just above the brake booster.


And the connector is behind the right A-Pillar cover.
I needed a 3/8" drive 10mm tube socket to undo the bolts.
I went with the solderless connectors so when I upgrade the stereo,
I can re-route the cable without mucking around with a soldering iron.


Much improved reception

[ren0vator]

After considering the code reader options,
and figuring I've always got my iPhone on me,
I purchased the BlueDriver module from Lemur's eBay store

Ran a full scan last night and was impressed by the power of their simple software.
Full scan took less than a minute.
The ABS, driveline, engine lights all flashed as the scan progressed.
Codes from the over heating episode read exhaust temp too high
Cleared engine light.
Amazing thing is I even got a code from the audio amplifier
Not so amazing, says I need two glow plugs now

Got a few more ideas brewing
Just need some more time off work

[ren0vator]

Set of Bosch glow plugs been waiting for installation
It's quiet at work, so whilst the boss is in the big house with his tie on
I'm out playing in the workshop

Thought I'd go backwards, so started at cylinder 6
on the left side 6, 5 & 4 all came and went easily
on the right side 3 came and went easily
2 & 1 just sat there spinning.

Someone has tried this before and #FFS jammed them in with thread tape
So the thread in the head is stuffed
Leaving them there for the time being

Was interesting to note the oil on the glow plugs
even with the ProVent catch can