What have you done to your JK this week? 2.5M Views

[BENAMON]

Just fitted some second hand 285/75-R16 silverstone mt117 sports to the factory 16" rims as a set of play tyres. She really does sound like an F-111 going down the highway, glad they will only be for weekend wheeling, haha. looks pretty sweet, I'll post up some pics when I get a chance.

ben.

[wranglertj]

Originally Posted by Derick

What brand would be the best to buy and the easiest to fit and disconnect.

JKS quick disconnects seem to be quite good but as i have the rubi i have the electric kind that came factory. I would ring the likes of wooders, jeepkonection as they are very reasonably priced

Happy hunting

[Derick]

Originally Posted by wranglertj

JKS quick disconnects seem to be quite good but as i have the rubi i have the electric kind that came factory. I would ring the likes of wooders, jeepkonection as they are very reasonably priced

Happy hunting

Thanks will check them out.

[Macca2801]

Ok, so humour me...
Those that have bought the JKS disconnect...are you fitting one disconnect at the front and one at the rear....or are you fitting two sets and disconnecting Both sides...both ends?

If it is the latter....WHY??

Once the one side is disconnected then the sawbar is unopperational and the still connected side locates the swaybar without the need to strap it up against the chassis.

Without measuring the links front and rear, at a quick glance they look the same and I dont see the point in purchasing two kits?

Please correct me if Im missing something.

Oh and fitted Front grab handles, Mopar slush mats and Mopar sill protectors.
Love the grab handles and sill guards....fit perfect and look great and work. Slush matss...wish I had seen the recents posts and got the Rugged Ridge ones and I will when these wear out.

Cheers Gents

Matt.

[Yom]

Originally Posted by Macca2801

Ok, so humour me...
Those that have bought the JKS disconnect...are you fitting one disconnect at the front and one at the rear....or are you fitting two sets and disconnecting Both sides...both ends?

If it is the latter....WHY??

Once the one side is disconnected then the sawbar is unopperational and the still connected side locates the swaybar without the need to strap it up against the chassis.

Without measuring the links front and rear, at a quick glance they look the same and I dont see the point in purchasing two kits?

Please correct me if Im missing something.

Oh and fitted Front grab handles, Mopar slush mats and Mopar sill protectors.
Love the grab handles and sill guards....fit perfect and look great and work. Slush matss...wish I had seen the recents posts and got the Rugged Ridge ones and I will when these wear out.

Cheers Gents

Matt.

coily sprung jeepers don't disconnect the rear swaybar usually as this removes alot of stability. no swaybars on a JK or TJ = one floppy and potentially tippy jeep.

leaving one side connected on the front will also end up with a whole lot of swaybar munching into steering/axle action as the side connected droops and when it compresses the swaybar would most likely attempt to remodel the bodywork/flare. its due to the way the swaybar is fitted, if they had mounted it on the axle rather than the chassis it wouldn't be a problem and you'd only have to disconnect one side as you have suggested (that is assuming you don't get more wheel travel than the potential extended length of the swaybar pointing towards axle + the length of the link, and in a JK in particular it is very easy to achieve enough axle articulation that the swaybar physically prevents further wheel travel - this is a potentially dangerous situation where the swaybar can get locked into a downward angle and i have had it happen to me!)

[Macca2801]

Originally Posted by Yom

coily sprung jeepers don't disconnect the rear swaybar usually as this removes alot of stability. no swaybars on a JK or TJ = one floppy and potentially tippy jeep.

leaving one side connected on the front will also end up with a whole lot of swaybar munching into steering/axle action as the side connected droops and when it compresses the swaybar would most likely attempt to remodel the bodywork/flare. its due to the way the swaybar is fitted, if they had mounted it on the axle rather than the chassis it wouldn't be a problem and you'd only have to disconnect one side as you have suggested (that is assuming you don't get more wheel travel than the potential extended length of the swaybar pointing towards axle + the length of the link, and in a JK in particular it is very easy to achieve enough axle articulation that the swaybar physically prevents further wheel travel - this is a potentially dangerous situation where the swaybar can get locked into a downward angle and i have had it happen to me!)

Cheers Yom
I guess Im looking at an unmodified JK atm, and at worst (at least untill the end of the lease) only a spring and shock swap with 2" of lift. I guess the amount of articulation you do determines if the wheel travel will exceed the fixed swaybar location.
I need to jump under and check the travel path of the swaybar on lift and drop and see what it would actually (potentially) come into contact with.

Again...thanks!

Matt.

[Yom]

Simple axle droop from both wheels won't give you a proper idea of full articulation though. shock length gets you closer to determining full amount of articulation.

and warning: use anything but Mopar parts and do NOT expect your dealer to assist you with vehicle build quality issues such as rattles or wear and tear in the suspension/steering. Its fair enough I guess, but the Mopar 2" lift leaves you with ******** all down travel in the rear (less than an inch) and not much in the front either. I reckon it might be unsafe actually.