JK vague steering

[mick666]

Originally Posted by Pete_79

Checked the odometer yesterday, it's only got 30,200km on it (it only did 14,000km in the first 3 years) and we've already had to replace the steering dampener, ball joints, draglink and now the steering box.
I'd hate to think what this would cost people that don't have a shed and tools or knowledge to do this work themselves.

You must be beating the absolute crap out of it to need all that shyt at 30k.. I replaced most of it at around 170k and the steering box is still ok at 216k

[Pete_79]

Nah, no Jeep abuse here.

It's done a dozen or more reasonably challenging runs, but definitely never been smashed around.
I get far more enjoyment picking good lines and actually driving, then just smashing into things hoping to get through it.

But hay, if you go and change the balance of things with a bit of lift, some extra tyre and more range of motion, you have to kind of expect some stock parts aren't going to be up to the task.
I just didn't expect so many to be so under cooked....

[Banshee]

Maybe you got one assembled from Friday parts? Mine is at ~150k, and all the bits were needed only after 100k.

[Johnboy]

Ive got a near brand new rancho steering stab done maybe 1000km before i went Hydro assist

[StewartVerity]

Just thought I'd add in my experience, as it sounds pretty similar to yours, as well as where I am at with sorting it, which fingers crossed looks like it is now. I'm also a 2013 jku on 35's. before I went up to 35s I braced the front diff and put in Cro mo axels and ball joints. When I got it back it handled just like yours. Took it back and they tightened it all again and replaced the drag link/tie rod for heavy duty items (my choice) as they were looking a bit worn and sloppy. I also put on castor correction brackets around the same time. It was much better when it came back, but still not quite right. It gradually got worse, but never as bad as at first.
I recently checked the camber and got significant negative readings on both front wheels, and different for each. Did the normal test for worn ball joints with the wheel off the ground and got no movement. However, when I put a pry bar in between the uni and c section I was able to lever a good 3+mm with little effort - essentially, it looks like the weight of the wheel and tyre was such that you couldn't detect any movement by hand.

I've just had a new set of ball joints installed, and while I haven't yet driven it too much yet, it seems to be a whole lot better.

So, maybe try checking the ball joints for excessive wear/poor fit. It may just be the issue and a pretty easy fix at the end of the day.


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