Stock steering damper bolt is stuck. what can I do?

[Toff]

Firstly I hope you are not hitting the top of the bolt?
Cause without the nut fitted you'll probably muchroom the end (making removal harder).
problem with just hitting it is the draglink will just "bounce" absorbing the impact. use a dead blow on the back.
Or remove the draglink and then try on the bench.

[danmoore]

layback40, from everything i've been reading the the bolt isn't threaded into it and just knocking it out should work. I did have the adjustable spanner onto it to see if I gave it a good jimmy it would loosen slightly to help knocking it out, to no avail though.

Toff, i haven't been hitting on the physical top of the bolt if that's what you mean? I understand the chance of mushrooming the end of it which i've been conscious of trying to avoid. You also raise a good point I hadn't considered about the draglink absorbing the impact,

I got to around 5:30 today and had to pack it in for the night as I was heading out. Bro is going to give us a hand tomorrow with some heat (not sure if he'll use the oxy or something else, he sounds confident he has something to use though) to try and loosen it a little bit. hopefully that helps.

[Will239]

you will never get it out by hammering it, its a tappered fit and heat will most likely just heat the bolt and expand that too. You need to use a tie rod puller or ball joint removal tool. This is the tool i use have used it on two jeeps and worked first time both times:

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...68#Description

[TheOoz]

If it is a taper as others have pointed out, some pressure from a balljoint press and then a few taps with a hammer on the drag link where the bolt passes through may work.

Oxy should expand both, but do a good job at breaking the bond between the two surfaces in the taper. A bit of heat and then a hit should work.

Starting point would be a friend with a lump hammer or similar resting against the draglink, and then a hammer on the end of the bolt as mentioned by Toff. You could refit the nut (upside down if it is castleated) to give you more width to strike and protect the thread from mushroom.

Given you sprayed it yesterday you may find it is an easy job today as the penetrating oil has had some time to make its way between the components.

Go hard.

[danmoore]

I've got a super cheap around the corner so I think I might go pick up one of those ball joint and tie rod separator tools like Will239 has linked. Failing that i'll ring in the assistance of my brother to bring the heat - should get it out.

I appreciate the help though folks - this is a great community! I'm not too mechanically minded by any stretch of the imagination (them's be full time keyboard hands), so for something so seemingly bolt-on, it's proved quite the challenge :P

[crawl3r]

the way i got mine out was just by hitting around the bolt with a hammer....it took a while but eventually it just went POP and dropped out....i put the nut back on and hit the top a few times trying to loosen it but that didnt do much, just be patient and keep hitting it, it will come out eventually haha

[danmoore]

Update: went to SuperCrap and bought the ball joint and tie rod separator tool as suggested by Will239. After coating the bolt in wd-40 before I went out last night it seems to have helped. First time the bolt popped straight out. still took a bit of strength, but the separator tool did it's job and paid for itself!

New damper is now on and working be-a-utifully!

Thanks again folks. I probably would have still been struggling in 5 odd hours from now had I not posted up!