CRD turbo actuator failure?

[robertodonnell]

Hi Gents,

I have been getting intermittent loss of power on the road. It started as a failure when I started up in the morning, and if I restarted it would go away. Today it happened while driving on the highway, I would lose power after driving a little while, and had to stop and restart to get power back, but a little while later again it was gone.

I am getting P0244 and P0046 codes, leading me to the boost control actuator on the turbo. I have found there are Chinese ones available on eBay, has anyone tried one and have an opinion? Or an alternate solution?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Ac...UAAOSwoCNffEQi

Cheers,

Rob.

[Turismo07]

In my experience and what I have heard online mostly, they are fine.

People do say that the turbo is "programmed" for its original actuator and therefore its not a good idea to separate the turbo from its actuator and mix and match. But in my experience mine is fine.

I have tried x2 Chinese actuators now, not because they were no good but because I wanted to try different codes out. They are cheap enough to so and now I have a spare lol.

I ahve also tried a secondhand actuator from another Jeep OM642, it had a different code to mine but turned out to be faulty as well.

Another option is to have yourself refurbished. There was a old post from years ago about someone on this forum in Melb that offered that service, not sure if he still does. Also a few places online (aware of a Canadian company that does it). But you need to ship your actuator to them and wait for return etc so vehicle out of action while you wait. Also no doubt the rebuilders are using the Chinese parts anyway (once you start looking into you will see all the internals and replacements avail to rebuild are all from China anyway).

I have my old one now that I might send off to get refurbished one day just to see if its any better, but for now very happy with my fake Chinese actuator.

What you need to do is remove you actuator and see what code it is (ie G277, G219, G001 etc) and then find the same coded actuator online. Mine is G277 stock, but apparently G001 is a updated actuator designed by Hella (used on later model OM642 engines) that replaces both the G277 and G219. I have bought G277 and G001 copies from China, both work well but I prefer the G277 copy as it had slightly more reponse so running that currently.

[robertodonnell]

Thanks heaps for this info. I will pull the unit and look for the ID number.

I can't have the car off the road long enough to have the part rebuilt, so an eBay purchase is imminent.

Cheers,

Rob.

[Mudgee hunter]

Make sure the linkage is fine firstly. Then check for a vacuum leak in the hose leading to it.
And the linkage pin are known for getting sticky and stuck.
A simple vacuum leak can stop the actuator from working.

[robertodonnell]

Thanks mate. I will have a look Sunday when I am off work. Hopefully the issue is a sticky pivot or perished hose.

[Brit30-06]

Originally Posted by Mudgee hunter

Make sure the linkage is fine firstly. Then check for a vacuum leak in the hose leading to it.
And the linkage pin are known for getting sticky and stuck.
A simple vacuum leak can stop the actuator from working.

Hi Mudgee
Are the actuators operated by a vacuum? I did not know that. I thought they were purely electronic.

[Cannabat]

Tim Han in Melbourne still offers turbo actuator repair services, I emailed him not long ago and he replied right away. tim_han4@hotmail.com

As of the time of his reply he quoted $250 for the repair including express return postage. You pay postage to him. 24 month warranty, 24 hour return time.