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  #1128  
Old 02-08-2015
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Both sides done now.


Bit of an overview. Spacing from the rear edge I have made the same as the FJ45 they came off.


Pre 1972 Landcruisers actually had the vents more around the side like this. Looks like gills on a shark!


Thought about doing it this way but then realized the hot engine air would then be drawn straight into the louvers I made in the side of the cowl for the AC intake.


Function over form so they will go on top. No turning back now.


Got some good fit up ready to be tigged.


Tacked in place. I grind down the tacks before welding right over the top of them again with the tig.


I weld without stopping as far as I can go. Did have a problem along the bottom where I lost sight of the join as it was so tight! So had to double up in the area.


Hammer on dolly right along the weld area until it was perfectly straight with a metal ruler against it.


This was the same vent that was badly damaged if you remember and that I repaired.



The very same vent as above so was worth fixing.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 03-08-2017 at 10:09 AM.
  #1129  
Old 02-08-2015
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Surely, you're tired of the accolades by now, Marcus?[emoji4]
I remember that vent. Superlative.

Sent from my FRED
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Last edited by Fat Chili; 10-08-2015 at 09:10 PM. Reason: no need to duplicate images
  #1130  
Old 02-08-2015
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Absolutely amazing, as always


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  #1131  
Old 03-08-2015
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Awesome work!
  #1132  
Old 03-08-2015
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Mate, you are a legend when it comes to butt welding sheet metal. Can you tell us what settings you're using on your tig and what tungsten you are using? Every time I've tried that it's usually a mess afterwards.

Keep up the great work!
  #1133  
Old 04-08-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-cj7 View Post
Mate, you are a legend when it comes to butt welding sheet metal. Can you tell us what settings you're using on your tig and what tungsten you are using? Every time I've tried that it's usually a mess afterwards.

Keep up the great work!
Not using any pulse or such thing at all and just adjusting voltage with a foot pedal as I go. Biggest thing to help is using a Lanthanated tungsten the same diameter as the metal thickness. I used a 1mm one on this with a No.4 cup if I remember. The smaller cup saves some gas and lets you see what going on easier too.
Make sure the filler rod is the same as the metal thickness, (I used 0.9 mig wire). Also hold the filler wire at 90* to the torch angle.
Yo get a better controlled arc with the right sized tungsten and less heat needed to melt the filler wire when it is thinner too.

Hope that helps.
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My web site:
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  #1134  
Old 04-08-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruggz351 View Post
Surely, you're tired of the accolades by now, Marcus?[emoji4]
I remember that vent. Superlative.

Sent from my FRED
Ha ha, never. Not to stroke my ego but that the effort of recording and posting is still appreciated.
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Cheers, Marcus.

My web site:
http://willyshotrod.com Over 5'000 Club
Likes: (1)
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