Led bar wiring?

[Abraxix]

Hello all (and maybe specifically LED's Unlimited) ???

perusing the website, i'm after a Wiring Loom and can't find one
specifically, have got a 130W Single Row 9000lumen LED Bar!!

don't have a wiring loom to well wire it all up. now i know that i can pick up a wiring loom from Super Cheap for $19.... however not sure if that is good enough ?
do you sell specific wiring looms for LED Bars? (or do you know if the cheap'o SuperCheap going to be okay?

anyone have one they want to sell?? what can i do to actually ge this beast to work ??

[Redman]

Originally Posted by Abraxix

Hello all (and maybe specifically LED's Unlimited) ???

perusing the website, i'm after a Wiring Loom and can't find one
specifically, have got a 130W Single Row 9000lumen LED Bar!!

don't have a wiring loom to well wire it all up. now i know that i can pick up a wiring loom from Super Cheap for $19.... however not sure if that is good enough ?
do you sell specific wiring looms for LED Bars? (or do you know if the cheap'o SuperCheap going to be okay?

anyone have one they want to sell?? what can i do to actually ge this beast to work ??

Hey Mate,
Well seeing as LED's draw way less than say a good set of spotties with 100w halogen globes i would recommend going to any 4x4 outlet that sells Lightforce spotties and the complete plug and play wiring loom with 40a relay is yours for about $45-$60 . that would be well and truely over the top but your worries over the $19 cheepy would be put to rest.
Cheers..

[MightyMouse]

Be interesting to measure the ACTUAL current.... ( and calculate true Wattage ) last one I measured consumed less than half the power advertised, was still F bright but the advertising department obviously got a bit carried away.

Shame really...... there's just no good reason to try and compare LED wattage with Incandescent Wattage given the vastly different efficiencies involved - an exercise in pointlessness.

There are even differences between manufacturers in the way they measure the Lumen outputs, and they all seem to produce more "marketable" numbers.

Advertising......

[Laz]

IMHO - the only true measure for "useable light" is a lux meter (1 lux is the goal, the amount of light required to comfortably read a newspaper) at a *useable distance..

*useable distance for me is at LEAST 50 m preferably 80 m , Led's are insanely bright to look at - it's how well they illuminate that is the question....

I specifically didn't mention colour temperature - 3300 - 4200 Kelvin is my preference to reduce visual fatigue.

To answer the wiring question, if you have an AMMETER then you can pick the right size wiring to minimise loss due to internal resistance (you lose energy directly from the wire as heat, wire simply gets hot when overloaded) - if this isn't an option then grab yourself some 6mm diameter wire - nothing your light bar can draw will kill that!

Here's a link for you to look up the right wire size
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

[Macca2801]

Originally Posted by MightyMouse

Be interesting to measure the ACTUAL current.... ( and calculate true Wattage ) last one I measured consumed less than half the power advertised, was still F bright but the advertising department obviously got a bit carried away.

Shame really...... there's just no good reason to try and compare LED wattage with Incandescent Wattage given the vastly different efficiencies involved - an exercise in pointlessness.

There are even differences between manufacturers in the way they measure the Lumen outputs, and they all seem to produce more "marketable" numbers.

Advertising......

Funny you say that MM I'm fitting an Aurora 6" combo to my XT660Z and it's a 30W ie 6x5W LEDs and measured it.


At 12v I got 2.2 amps and with bike running and charging at 13.5 it dropped to 2.0 amps.
Close enough for me! Might try my 20" on the JK

For the OP, ANY spot wiring loom will be sufficient and as a bonus you can add two light bar to the wiring setup haha. If you are mildly competent with wiring you could make one that suits your vehicle in a few minutes. Unfortunately for most of us using the light bars as spot lighting requires the loom to be switched off the highbeam circuit. The supplied wiring looms are for work lights and are operated solely by the on/off switch. No problem as you can cut the positive feed off the relay to the switch and connect that to the highbeam feed to correct it. What I'm getting at is.. Even the supplied looms need modification so easier to make your own that suits your vehicle exactly!
Matt

[LED's Unlimited]

Originally Posted by Abraxix

Hello all (and maybe specifically LED's Unlimited) ???

perusing the website, i'm after a Wiring Loom and can't find one
specifically, have got a 130W Single Row 9000lumen LED Bar!!

don't have a wiring loom to well wire it all up. now i know that i can pick up a wiring loom from Super Cheap for $19.... however not sure if that is good enough ?
do you sell specific wiring looms for LED Bars? (or do you know if the cheap'o SuperCheap going to be okay?

anyone have one they want to sell?? what can i do to actually ge this beast to work ??

Hi Abraxix, havent seen the Supercheap one so dont know what the specs are, this is one we sell http://www.ledsunlimited.com.au/auxi...wiring-harness and will easily handle 130w, the beauty with all the Aurora light bars we sell is they also come with a premade loom included with them, if you have any questions let me know

[LED's Unlimited]

Originally Posted by Macca2801

Funny you say that MM I'm fitting an Aurora 6" combo to my XT660Z and it's a 30W ie 6x5W LEDs and measured it.


At 12v I got 2.2 amps and with bike running and charging at 13.5 it dropped to 2.0 amps.
Close enough for me! Might try my 20" on the JK

For the OP, ANY spot wiring loom will be sufficient and as a bonus you can add two light bar to the wiring setup haha. If you are mildly competent with wiring you could make one that suits your vehicle in a few minutes. Unfortunately for most of us using the light bars as spot lighting requires the loom to be switched off the highbeam circuit. The supplied wiring looms are for work lights and are operated solely by the on/off switch. No problem as you can cut the positive feed off the relay to the switch and connect that to the highbeam feed to correct it. What I'm getting at is.. Even the supplied looms need modification so easier to make your own that suits your vehicle exactly!
Matt

That will light up the road nicely for you, i upgraded the bulbs on my sports bike to twin 45w HID and it is amazing how good the output is, http://www.ledsunlimited.com.au/hid-kit-motorbike-0 just wish there was a spot for me to mount some Duallys to it LOL