Auxiliary battery connection

[crdv6]

Can anyone help me understand how to connect another battery to run the fridge when stopped for a while and keep charged from the car?
I see some light weight lithium battery packs with built-in DC-DC charger but don't know how to use it. Is it possible to connect with Anderson plugs and cables, or will it require a visit to the auto electrician?

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[Mace1]

See my reply in blokes advice..

[Mudgee hunter]

The redarc dcdc unit. ($180 +,-) are good.
Basically you tap into your positive battery terminal to one side of the terminal of their solenoid unit.
Then another cable off the outlet terminal to your battery position.
Using a fuse before and after the the solenoid is a must.
Using twin core double insulated is best I believe.
Connecting the negative to the battery directly rather than chassis.
Anderson plugs are fine at the battery end.
But I advise to mount two or 3 Anderson plugs, splitting the feed.
Then fit a lead with one or two Anderson plug off your battery ,
Plug it into one of feed Anderson plugs. This will leave you one spare plug that you can either draw from, or connect your solar panel up too for charging.
These solenoids have a built in diode that only let's power go from your cranking/ primary battery to the auxiliary.
And not back feed from auxiliary to cranking .
Even if your auxiliary battery goes dead flat accidentally.
It won't affect your cranking battery.
I fed mine through the fire wall near the brake booster, then along the sill into the back of my XJ.
Always fit another fuse to each individual Anderson plug feed from your auxiliary battery terminal between the battery and Anderson plug.
Middy blade fuse unit its are about $20 +,- with the fuse included on line.
30amp fuses should fine

[Classic Boy]

If you use a lithium battery you will need a special lithium style battery charger to monitor the battery charging cycles, temperature, etc otherwise you risk a “3 mile island” type meltdown.

[simonwri]

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[drover]

The lithium batteries incorporating a charger will just need a power supply, I have found running leads from the jumper poles under the bonnet supplies a good connection without stuffing around with the start battery, to run cable into cabin use holes on passenger side of firewall......... The lithium will fit in the cavity under the pass seat and will be very happy just run a cable with anderson off it...using maxi fuse's.

[Lewy2001]

I added a battery box with 130A AGM and a 20A Renogy DC-DC charger the weekend. It connects to a distribution board with resetable cct breakers installed beside my original battery. I installed this distribution board when I setup the vehicle for towing with brake controller and a anderson plug to the tow bar.

Not my idea I copied it from someone else it may have even been someone on this forum. Tapped into the useless rechargable torch wiring to get the 12V ignition wire to activate the charger.
Have set it up so I can remove it along with the fridge to another vehicle with Anderson plug on 12V source and 2 pin connector on charger activation. I can hide both plugs under the floor when not in use to prevent damage.

Still looking at ways to secure the battery and fridge as not using a fridge slide. The anchor points are pretty flimsy and not in correct locations for my fitment.