Changing coils

[Grippy]

Could be warped discs, flogged out tie rod ends, control arm bushings, bad alignment, all sorts of stuff from what I've read.

Sent from under my Grand Cherokee

[OzRick25]

Like driving a tumble dryer hey! The lift would just exacerbate the effects of worn components.

An rtc dampner will not fix this. You may need a new dampner but there will almost certainly be other issues.

If it wasn't there before the lift and you still have the same wheels and tyres I would start by inspecting your ball joints then uni joints and wheel bearings then steering component, bushes, dampner and then play in the steering motor..

Did you get a post lift alignment? The factory alignment settings arent great after a lift id go 0 or 1/2 degree toe out rather than 1 or 2 degree toe in that they often have. A slight negative camber and get the thrust and caster angles checked. Idd still check for worn components and replace them before getting the alignment though.

If your not comfortable doing it yourself pedders or abs should be able to sort you out.

For a full front end replacement of unis, balls, bearings, and bushes and an allingment I'd be expecting $1500+ but it's a shit time of year so you may have to fork out quite a bit to get it sorted

[steelo25]

Just found the tie rod end is REALLY flogged out, now to get a price down here in Pemberton hmm.

Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk

[Straubz]

Slight toe in should actually reduce the effect of death wobble more than toe out would, but caster has the largest effect on it, make sure you get it as close to stock caster as possible.
Also get a pry bar and really test your ball joints as well, mine looked fine until i put some force on them, only had a small amount of movement but it was enough.

[OzRick25]

Originally Posted by Straubz

Slight toe in should actually reduce the effect of death wobble more than toe out would, but caster has the largest effect on it, make sure you get it as close to stock caster as possible.
Also get a pry bar and really test your ball joints as well, mine looked fine until i put some force on them, only had a small amount of movement but it was enough.

Correcting caster back to stock and checking your thrust angle is certainly very important.

Unless someone has put in adjustable ball joints you should have slight negative camber of 1/2° if you don't then you have a bent tie rod worn balls or tie rod ends. When you have toe in your vehicle will have more steering stability and feel more confident cornering however the effect of toe in creates an unstable moment that can be cancelled out with slight positive camber. Seen as these Jeeps normally have fixed slight negative camber a slight toe out will serve to cancel the conical moment. It may feel slightly more boaty cornering but will be better keeping the wheels and tyres balanced particularly if you have big rubber.