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  #8  
Old 15-05-2015
MidnightMods  MidnightMods is offline
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Chris, I open up the drain on the rad, put the hose into the coolant bottle and run the car with a small amount of water flowing, waiting till the coolant dripping from the rad is pure white/clean water then close it, let it get warm then dump the lot, refill and run and them dump. Then flush it with pure bottled water, then dump, then add coolant at a 70% coolant 30 water (mainly this strong for the auto's) then fill with bottled pure water.

Driver side front of rad is the drain plug, you can get to it from the front of the car.
Most will say stay 50%50 but i found the crd's go better with a slightly more mix. Most cars have seen 6-10deg drops in temps after the coolant change my way. Its worked for me but doesn't mean its how it should be done.

System is basically self bleeding in terms of the heater core and system, you can crack the nipple on the drivers side top of rad to release some small air pockets, but its a very tiny amount. Keep the car flat as the reserve bottle is at the highest point in the CRD.
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Old 15-05-2015
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Take the reservoir cap off. Disconnect the bottom radiator hose and let it drain. Disconnect the heater outlet hose and put the garden hose in. Put the heater on and turn the key to acc to open the heater flow control valve. This will back flush the heater core so that any particles caught in the entry of the core will go back out the entry hose. Disconnect the top radiator hose and put the garden hose in the bottom of the radiator and back flush the radiator core. Then just stick the garden hose into the engine side of the bottom radiator hose and flush. After this you can pop it in the top of the radiator as well just to be sure.

Don't bother opening the engine block plug.

Put it all back together and fill with coolant. Open the bleed valve at the top of the radiator and get the fluid to dribble out. Close the valve and start the engine. Get it up to temperature (thermostat open) and open the bleed valve again. Over the next week or two, open the valve to bleed air every now and then.
  #10  
Old 15-05-2015
YamahaDOC  YamahaDOC is offline
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Pure bottled water still contains minerals which will harbour electrolysis. Distilled water is the only thing to use, it's important...... Just saying
  #11  
Old 15-05-2015
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Valvoline Zerex G-05 is the coolant for the CRD's? Correct.
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  #12  
Old 16-05-2015
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Thanks for all the help. I don't think there is any coolant compatibility issues at the moment but I guess with 125,000 km and unknown service history it's worthwhile giving it a decent flush. Curious to see what crap if any comes out.

MidnightMods you are the only one I have read that suggests such a strong mix. Doesn't coolant have keww cooling capacity than water?
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Old 16-05-2015
MidnightMods  MidnightMods is offline
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I suggest it and use it to over come any wrong doing with ratio due to water already being in the block. can't under mix it then, but ive always had positive outcomes with a slightly stronger mix
  #14  
Old 16-05-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidnightMods View Post
I suggest it and use it to over come any wrong doing with ratio due to water already being in the block. can't under mix it then, but ive always had positive outcomes with a slightly stronger mix
I am not following your logic, higher concentration only helps with anti freezing qualities in the coolant. It does not help with cooling at all, in fact it may even be less efficient this way. That's what I have read, always.
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