2.7 CRD Ticking, smoking - any ideas?

[Domaso]

Originally Posted by drover

Do a search as bodgie did a write up I think, may even be a link in Everything 2.7..................Ditch the Castrol go to Penrite HPR Diesel 10w40, at 250,000k I would go a 15w40 semi syn oil, I used castrol once and dropped it out 3,000k later, noisy engine ran hotter under load. No problems with Penrite and I'm going to 15w next change I think.
I wouldn't waste my money on a full syn oil in these engines with high k's semi syn is fine with some going back to mineral with high mileage engines and getting good results.

I don't think I can get Penrite here... So, what are the bad things with 5W30 and 5W40? Are these too thin for a worn engine? What about 10W40 fully synthetic? Isn't it a bit better than semi-syn?

As for the engine running hotter - how much hotter did it ran? Is there a problem with that?
Earlier I had a failed thermostat and my engine wouldn't reach more than 70~75'C (158~167'F). The standard thermostat in WJs/WGs is 87'C, but after reading that some guys put Mercedes CDI 92'C thermostats, I did the same. So now I have a 92'C MB thermostat and the Temp gauge is a little less than half when hot. The engine warms up faster and there is even a slight improvement in fuel economy. Can this thermostat change be a bad thing?
(I'm not really familiar with All-year-round temperatures/climate in The Land Down Under, but here in North-Eastern Europe we get warm/hot summers and the rest is pretty cool/cold, so that's why I thought 92'C thermostat might be a good idea..)

[bodgie]

Originally Posted by Domaso

I'll test the viscous heater, but it doesn't really concern me much even if it's a bit tired.. I was told the viscous clutch is making that whine and should be replaced (one mechanic said "it's not a big deal until it whines at idle").

It is an hour job once you have the part, I'd be inclined to replace the bearing before it craps itself. Some or all of the idlers could be a bit on the shagged side to, while you have the belt of i'd check them too.

[drover]

Sorry I missed your location, been using a tablet which is a pain. I found with the Castrol that I ran hotter and my oil pressure dropped back when it was working hard dragging my van up big hills so went back to Penrite but Valvoline would be good, being a bit warmer over here mostly we can have a higher grade.
Agree with bodgie though regards the viscous heater and pulleys, if the bearings fails it will stop you dead.

[fester]

Originally Posted by drover

Sorry I missed your location, been using a tablet which is a pain.

Did you read the doctors instructions, you might be taking them the wrong way.

I did the bearing in the heater hub but it still ticks. pulleys are something to watch, being plastic if the bearing lets go the pulley chews itself to bits.

[Domaso]

I guess it's a good idea to change that viscous heater pulley + bearing. I found the part number for the heater bearing, but I can't find the pulley number anywhere.. As I understand the pulley comes with the new clutch inside? (I was told that the whine at high rpm's is caused by that clutch). Anyone with the part number for that pulley/clutch? Would be greatly appreciated
I will also be replacing the serpentine belt after that ticking/smoking is sorted, so any other bad pulley bearings will be replaced.

[Domaso]

Originally Posted by drover

Sorry I missed your location, been using a tablet which is a pain. I found with the Castrol that I ran hotter and my oil pressure dropped back when it was working hard dragging my van up big hills so went back to Penrite but Valvoline would be good, being a bit warmer over here mostly we can have a higher grade.
Agree with bodgie though regards the viscous heater and pulleys, if the bearings fails it will stop you dead.

Drover - now that you've mentioned it, another thing I'll be divulging.
I'm also having an issue with oil pressure (at least what my dash gauge tells me). When I start the car from cold, the oil gauge needle rises to a little more than half, and it gradually drops when the engine is warming up. Once hot, and let's say I'm driving - the gauge is a little less than half, but when I stop at red light, after a few seconds it starts dropping and after a while it's down to the first mark on the gauge (almost zero pressure). HOWEVER - when my car was at the turbo rebuild shop, I asked them to check the oil pressure using manual oil pressure gauge. They hooked up the manual gauge to the turbo bearing oil line so they can monitor both gauges (dash and manual) at the same time. When the dash gauge is playing up, the manual gauge is showing good pressure. They checked it on cold-warming-hot engine. So I ordered a new OEM Mopar oil pressure sensor and it should be arriving in a few days.

Low oil pressure = lifters ticking, that was my initial thought, but after the pressure test I eliminated this and that's why I didn't mention it in my first post.

But now I'm wondering - is there a difference of oil pressure in the turbo oil line and the place where the sensor is located? Can it be that the pressure is really dropping in the engine?

As for the engine oil - what do you think would be better: Valvoline 5W30 or 10W40, maybe 10W30? (I don't want to go too thick as we sometimes are have down to -25'C/-13'F in winter). And I'm guessing full-syn is always better than semi-syn or is there something specific for this engine? I'm not really concerned about the price that much, just want to make sure the engine runs nice.

Sorry for the extensive post...

[Clarky]

Defiantly stick to 5w-30 in the winter months. -25C totally unthinkable over here

How often do you change the oil? It's not uncommon to change oil every 5000km here in Oz.