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  #1499  
Old 17-06-2019
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looking good Gojeep, video is great, that infil panel looks so much better, guessing that and the inner and outer guard will all be one piece as it is on a CJ, it is so good on mine to be able to un plug the indicators, and remove a guard, 6 bolts per side, and the grille, and radiator stay in place and you can run the motor
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  #1500  
Old 18-06-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ6np435 View Post
looking good Gojeep, video is great, that infil panel looks so much better, guessing that and the inner and outer guard will all be one piece as it is on a CJ, it is so good on mine to be able to un plug the indicators, and remove a guard, 6 bolts per side, and the grille, and radiator stay in place and you can run the motor
Thanks mate.

You are right and the inner guard will weld to the outer guard and the infill panel along with the new tube frame making it one solid piece.
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  #1501  
Old 21-06-2019
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Tool update.

Wanted a set of portable shrinker/stretchers for a while for when the job is too big or you want to do it in situ for the best or quicker result. But they start around $700US which was more than I could justify and you have to keep switching the jaws between shrink and stretch. So waited for a bench mounted set to come on special with the EOFY sales and got a pair for only a 1/3rd of the cost!


I needed to make a set of handles to support the body of the shrinker/stretchers. I just cut some 1/4" thick flat and welded it to some old 3/4" water pipe a foot long to match the handles they come with


I used the flat under the body to keep the profile as minimal as possible so I can get into more places. I wanted to use counter sink bolts as well but didn't have any to match the 10mmx1.5 pitch threaded holes. Also notice that the pipe is hard against the back of the body to act as a brace so it doesn't bend the flat in use.


I was worried there wouldn't be enough leverage but it works well enough on 0.9mm-20g bonnet.


Thought I would show its uses. Notice the dip in the top of the guard. This often happens when using a tipping wheel as the fold line gets stretched


So to lift the dip you need to stretch the top half of the flange to match. You only stretch the top 25-50% of the flange, otherwise you are just lengthening the whole flange and not achieving anything. So don't use it like pictured!


Now with the thicker 1.2-18g steel I had to really muscle the levers and I could not get a feel for what was happening. So threaded the end of the lower one and added another foot to the length and made a new upper one. I have unscrewed the extension and used the original upper when working in tight areas, so it is good to be able to do that when needed.


Can see the guard is now perfectly flat until the far right where it starts to drop down to meet the grille.
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  #1502  
Old 22-06-2019
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Big step in the build. Need to lift the cab off the trestles they have been tack welded too all this time. Just seeing where it balances.


Balance point lines up just behind the front seat mounting bosses.


Neighbours had thrown out their children's swing set, so cut that up to use. I have spread the load over all four seat mounts just to be sure.


I have added braces to the two mounts closest to the tunnel to stop the thin walled tubing bending forwards with the load.


Lifting up from floor height gives the possibility for lifting up over the engine if needed with ease. Also no strain on the roof supports like lifting from above. Also will use this once fully painted as no risk to the paint work.


Once off the trestles, I easily balanced the cab with one hand while moving them out of the way with the other. Then lowered it down to the cranes base with some timber on it. Could then just push it over to the corner of the workshop.


Look what is coming out of the garage! Been sitting in there since I finished it back in October 2013!


Only had it coated with lanolin and then old sheets over it. No plastic as that would cause a nice wet environment from condensation and I also had water occasionally flood in here too during bad storms!


To get to my workshop I actually have to take a trip down the road and then into the side street entrance. Neighbours helping by pushing it. I got the father to drive the Jeep after this shot as I had it attached to it to stop a runaway once we got around the corner.


Pretty tight in here! Even on my own I just dragged the rear end around on a trolley jack to save dropping it onto my wheel dollies.


Had no problem on my own lifting the cab onto the chassis using the crane. I have it sitting on some 12mm plastic spacers to give me the clearance I want under the floor supports. This will reduce a bit once I build the chassis to cab mounts and it rests on rubber mounts and then tightened down.


I had already one chassis mount made all those years ago in the center of the back wall. This is already bolted in with the rubber mount but not tightened down. That will happen after the rest are made so they are all at the same tension.


Engine to donor firewall distance is exactly the same as when mounted in the donor.


Was great to stand back and see what it looked like for the first time together.


Couldn't help but quickly throw on a guard!
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  #1503  
Old 23-06-2019
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That is looking amazing Marcus. The proportions look great. One more step to it being on the road. Always watching/reading in awe of your skill and patience to get it just right.

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  #1504  
Old 23-06-2019
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huge milestone, looks so good!
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  #1505  
Old 23-06-2019
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Fantastic work. Awesome to see the cab on the chassis.
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