I have wired in the battery in its new location. I used 50mm2 or 0 B&S sized cable so there would be no voltage drop. Added an extra negative cable to the frame as well. I have been using plated thread inserts, rivnuts or nutserts, for my negative cable frame and body connections as can easily clean the face of them after painting to give a good contact.
In the engine bay I attached two remote battery studs to the side of the fuse box. The original factory cables could be fastened to them without alteration.
Some CAD work being done as I come up for an idea for a support for the air intake ducting.
The tabs facing into the radius will be bent outwards to support the duct. I will also shorten the bracket by the height of the rubber isolators to help with difference in movement between the engine and the suspension tower.
To bend the tabs over I just did it in a vice and hammered with the punch only in the centre. This gave the radius I was after to the tabs.
I used thread inserts as could not get to the backside on one of them to push a bolt through.
Ducting now finished and the last of the plumbing now done.
I am using the largest K&N dryflow oil-free media filter, RU-3105HBK, that I could fit in.
https://www.knfilters.com/ru-3105hbk...-on-air-filter Some states here do not allow an oiled filter for fear of engine fire after an intake backfire unless they are enclosed. Also the oil can affect engine sensors.
The hose clamps around the tabs on the support bracket holding everything in place while clamping the intake hose to the aluminium coupler inside at the same time.