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  #1576  
Old 01-03-2020
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Thank you for all the comments.


I was shown this one after my last post about the royal crimson and black combination on an old truck.
Looks pretty good to me!
My fear with the Jeep olive is that it will lose too much of the 40's look and will just come across as a newer Jeep with a front sheet metal change.
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  #1577  
Old 02-03-2020
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Colour is a personal preference, an old school colour like royal crimson may look very good with the black guards, I guess it depends on the look that you want.

My opnion is if you go for a modern colour you may want to have a matt rather than gloss finish, give it the rat roddish kind of patina. Would be interesting to see if you could mock up some colours in photshop or another app to see what may work.

Jason
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  #1578  
Old 08-03-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodgie View Post
Colour is a personal preference, an old school colour like royal crimson may look very good with the black guards, I guess it depends on the look that you want.

My opnion is if you go for a modern colour you may want to have a matt rather than gloss finish, give it the rat roddish kind of patina. Would be interesting to see if you could mock up some colours in photshop or another app to see what may work.

Jason
Unfortunately I do not have Photoshop or learnt the skills needed to change the colour. Thanks for your input.
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  #1579  
Old 08-03-2020
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I have wired in the battery in its new location. I used 50mm2 or 0 B&S sized cable so there would be no voltage drop. Added an extra negative cable to the frame as well. I have been using plated thread inserts, rivnuts or nutserts, for my negative cable frame and body connections as can easily clean the face of them after painting to give a good contact.


In the engine bay I attached two remote battery studs to the side of the fuse box. The original factory cables could be fastened to them without alteration.


Some CAD work being done as I come up for an idea for a support for the air intake ducting.


The tabs facing into the radius will be bent outwards to support the duct. I will also shorten the bracket by the height of the rubber isolators to help with difference in movement between the engine and the suspension tower.


To bend the tabs over I just did it in a vice and hammered with the punch only in the centre. This gave the radius I was after to the tabs.


I used thread inserts as could not get to the backside on one of them to push a bolt through.


Ducting now finished and the last of the plumbing now done.


I am using the largest K&N dryflow oil-free media filter, RU-3105HBK, that I could fit in. https://www.knfilters.com/ru-3105hbk...-on-air-filter Some states here do not allow an oiled filter for fear of engine fire after an intake backfire unless they are enclosed. Also the oil can affect engine sensors.
The hose clamps around the tabs on the support bracket holding everything in place while clamping the intake hose to the aluminium coupler inside at the same time.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 11-03-2020 at 10:53 AM.
  #1580  
Old 10-03-2020
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Loved your YouTube video, damn that's a lot of wiring!

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
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  #1581  
Old 10-03-2020
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very neat work GoJeep! have you considered galvanic corrosion on your earthing nutsert?
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  #1582  
Old 11-03-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaComms View Post
Loved your YouTube video, damn that's a lot of wiring!

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
Here is the video BTW for those how have not already seen it.

https://youtu.be/UdRdeISJ2wo
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