KJ 2.8 auto- rpm at 100kph?

[simonr23]

Hi all,

This is my first post here, so it’s an intro and a question.

I’ve recently bought an early 03 2.8 auto (before the maf sensor/variable vane turbo, etc were introduced)

Car seems pretty good overall.


I’ve done some googling, but haven’t found a definitive answer yet.

What rpm should the car be sitting at when doing 100kph on flat road. I’m at 2000prm.
I believe I have the 545rfe- so 2 overdrive gears.

Somewhere around 90kph I feel like it shifts from 4-5, then just over 100 I think the TC locks up, which allows revs to be 2000 at 100kph. Is this all correct? These are indicated figures, rather than gps.

Thanks in advance for any confirmations/advice.

[Fishframe]

I don’t know, but 2,000rpm at 100kph sounds reasonable to me.

[baristaman]

That's about right. Mine is different because of bigger rolling diameter now though

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[simonr23]

Thanks for the replies.

Something I noticed today, was that when I use the o/d lockout button, the trans is very eager to lock up in 3rd- at only 1300rpm (45kph)
The car doesn’t seem to like it and it feels a bit ‘rough’ almost like a misfiring petrol car, or as if the rear ended is going over some bumps, unless I use more throttle to ‘load up’ the engine/driveline, or wait until my speed goes above 1600rpm. Not a feeling of shuddering.

Is this a problem- or a quirk?

I checked the fluid (idling in N, after going through all slots), it looks very clean and red still. It was about 1/2 way up the stick at a temp that was about 1/3 way between cold and hot oil temp (30mins after a long drive)

[layback40]

Originally Posted by simonr23

Hi all,

This is my first post here, so it’s an intro and a question.

I’ve recently bought an early 03 2.8 auto (before the maf sensor/variable vane turbo, etc were introduced)

Car seems pretty good overall.


I’ve done some googling, but haven’t found a definitive answer yet.

What rpm should the car be sitting at when doing 100kph on flat road. I’m at 2000prm.
I believe I have the 545rfe- so 2 overdrive gears.

Somewhere around 90kph I feel like it shifts from 4-5, then just over 100 I think the TC locks up, which allows revs to be 2000 at 100kph. Is this all correct? These are indicated figures, rather than gps.

Thanks in advance for any confirmations/advice.

First of all, welcome to the forum!
My 2006 tends to lock up at about 80km/hr.
There is sometines a change at about 90km/hr.
If you are not driving like you stole it, you can slow to 80km/hr with it staying in top.
At 100km/hr mine is doing about 1800rpm.
I hardly ever use the OD lock out. It does alter the change points.
If the MIL light comes on for a trans fault it doesnt lock up and at 100km/hr its doing around 2500rpm.
Its easy to tell if the lock up is on as without it the RPM will go up & down as you put your foot down or off.
These trans like to be over filled with fluid. You could try adding 2 ltrs and see what happens. It wont hurt.
If it hasnt had trans fluid/filters changed in the past 50,000km, it would not hurt to do it. Use silicone to reseal the pan. There are 2 filters, the usual trans type filter (make sure you get the right one) and one that looks like an engine oil filter.
How many km has it done? Has the timeing belt been changed? There is plenty of good information on lostjeeps.com Many KJ CRD owners on here are also there. These engines can have valve failure at about 250 -300,000km.
When running right they are great jeeps.

[simonr23]

Thanks for the detailed reply.

This one has 140k on it.
No proof of timing belt, but last owner had a good vibe and knew their stuff, so believe them that it was done in 2017. I’m already prebooked to get the belt, water pump and pulleys/tensioner done- but they’re booked out until mid March.

I have all the stuff for a trans service- just willing myself to do it (and get messy dropping the pan)
I’m also going to do the coolant and order a new thermostat (harder to get the one for the older 2.8’s)
Also going to to do a coolant swap when I do the thermostat. I have a tiny leak from the top hose at the thermostat- it’s still using those cheap spring clamps to locate the hose. I have the screw clamps waiting too.

Also have all the fluids for power steer, both diffs and the tc.

Have a new fuel filter to fit at some point.

Will need new front suspension as all the ball joints are torn. May do a dodgy clean/lube/amalgamate tape job to buy some time. As it currently drives nice.

Front and rear shafts appear in good nick. Although have now read that the funny feelings I feel in 3rd with TC locked up at low revs, can be a seized uni joint in the rear shaft.

I’ve blocked the EGR solenoid, cleaned the map/boost sensor, given it a oil flush, then a refill, then a oil dump, and then a new oil/filter and air filter service.

Had the top brake light rust problem (missed it when inspecting it) so got rid of the rust, sprayed protector on it, grounded/sanded it back (ugly- nearly looks as bad now as the rust bubbles!) patched it up, then primed/painted/clear coated it and rtv the brake light light.

Also gave the flares a repaint as the left side were a bit sun damaged- must’ve parked with that side facing north/west all the time.

Replaced the bonnet and boot struts.

Fixed the side indicators- bullbar installer (before I had it) didn’t connect them back up to the loom.

Have added a Sony CarPlay stereo- as I missed that from my last car. Have a reverse cam that I’m working myself up to installing. Not looking forward to running the rca cable all through the car.

[baristaman]

Originally Posted by simonr23

Thanks for the detailed reply.



This one has 140k on it.

No proof of timing belt, but last owner had a good vibe and knew their stuff, so believe them that it was done in 2017. I’m already prebooked to get the belt, water pump and pulleys/tensioner done- but they’re booked out until mid March.



I have all the stuff for a trans service- just willing myself to do it (and get messy dropping the pan)

I’m also going to do the coolant and order a new thermostat (harder to get the one for the older 2.8’s)

Also going to to do a coolant swap when I do the thermostat. I have a tiny leak from the top hose at the thermostat- it’s still using those cheap spring clamps to locate the hose. I have the screw clamps waiting too.



Also have all the fluids for power steer, both diffs and the tc.



Have a new fuel filter to fit at some point.



Will need new front suspension as all the ball joints are torn. May do a dodgy clean/lube/amalgamate tape job to buy some time. As it currently drives nice.



Front and rear shafts appear in good nick. Although have now read that the funny feelings I feel in 3rd with TC locked up at low revs, can be a seized uni joint in the rear shaft.



I’ve blocked the EGR solenoid, cleaned the map/boost sensor, given it a oil flush, then a refill, then a oil dump, and then a new oil/filter and air filter service.



Had the top brake light rust problem (missed it when inspecting it) so got rid of the rust, sprayed protector on it, grounded/sanded it back (ugly- nearly looks as bad now as the rust bubbles!) patched it up, then primed/painted/clear coated it and rtv the brake light light.



Also gave the flares a repaint as the left side were a bit sun damaged- must’ve parked with that side facing north/west all the time.



Replaced the bonnet and boot struts.



Fixed the side indicators- bullbar installer (before I had it) didn’t connect them back up to the loom.



Have added a Sony CarPlay stereo- as I missed that from my last car. Have a reverse cam that I’m working myself up to installing. Not looking forward to running the rca cable all through the car.

Sounds like you're all over it! The cable for the rear is surprisingly easy to run down the side. I did mine too.. I am changing my field filter to a Toyota housing next service to save money on replacement filters, the price difference is astounding.

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