Your RPM at 100 kph will be dependent on your tyre size, and the in part on the ECM and TCU software you are using.
My 2007 CRD ran at about 1800 rpm / 100 km hour.
But it had the Green Diesel Ecotune (full torque version) and the Green Diesel remapped TCU (which altered shift points).
Stock setup on those cars always have the transmission "hunting" around 80kmph, too slow for 5th, and it sits on the upshift point from 4th to 5th. Particularly frustrating if your towing.
A word of advice, make sure your mechanic knows, and has experience on VM engines before he starts the timing belt job, and get a fixed price quote. The job also requires a few " VM special tools", to lock the cam shafts, and the flywheel. Although an exoerienced mechanic can use custom locking pins. If your changing the timing belt, best to do the water pump at the same time. Also make sure you are changing the belt tensioner too.
The service manual suggests removing the front of engine components, radiator, etc, but the job can be done simply by removing the radiator shroud ( do the shroud mod cutting first).
Before you remove the old timing belt, place witness marks on the cam and crank, and injection pump pulleys with alignment marks on the belt as well. Liquid Paper, printing correction fluid in white makes a good witness mark paint. Then transfer those alignment marks to the new belt before install. Start putting the new belt on from the top down, around the same first, last section is between the injection pump and crank pulley. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THE BELT IS TIGHT BETWEEN THE INJECTION PUMP AND CRANK, ANY SLACK WILL RESULT IN MIS TIMED VALVES. THE SECRET HERE IS TO HAVE THE WITNESS MARKS, AND YOU MAY HAVE TO BACK THE CRANK EVER SO SLIGHTLY TO GET THE BELT TO SLIP ONTO THE CORRECT TOOTH (And this is only like one mms).
Last edited by glend; 16-02-2021 at 07:53 AM.
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