No Crank, No jeep, No sleep (2005 GC 5.7L)

[TorqueTalk]

*Please see Post #11 on Page 2 for the advanced diagnostic scan report*

Dear Jeep community,

2005 Jeep WH/WK Grand Cherokee 5.7L Limited

I have been losing sleep and when I do sleep, I have been dreaming of working on it and sometimes, on good nights, dream about driving it.** **

The Jeep was left for 3 months and when the fully charged battery was reinstalled I had three, two second start and stalls (the third sounded like it had very high revs) and then my current condition of no crank no start. I had an alien RFID tag on my keychain which was quickly removed and I believe I am not in the Sentry Key Immobiliser System [SKIS] lockout (please read on) yet there is still NO CRANK.

Today, when I connect a fully charged battery:

I unlock the car using the FOB Remote. I turn the key to position [On] and observe the ABS, ESP/TCS, Oil Pressure, Malfunction Indicator Light (flashes 11 times then constant) and SKIS Indicator (briefly) on the cluster. The fuel gauge is accurate. During the first ignition cycle to [On] the SKIS indicator light goes out after 3 seconds which indicates the SKIS self tests have passed nominally. Turning the ignition from position [On] to position [Start] the ABS and ESP/TCS lights go out, but there is NO CRANK. The ABS and ESP/TCS lights come back on again a few seconds after the key is returned to position [On].

During the second ignition cycle from key positions [Off] to [On], everything happens as above however the SKIS indicator light now stays solid indicating that the SKIM has detected a system malfunction and/or the SKIS has become inoperative. Turning the key to [Start] still leads to a no crank condition and this is the situation until I remove the battery, reconnect it and can replicate the SKIS indicator light going out as above.

Here is what I have tried/diagnosed:

I have used a key blade with no FOB and on the first ignition cycle the SKIS indicator light flashes, confirming that it is an invalid key and that the other Fobs are being accepted as valid.

I have left the programmed key in the ignition whilst the car is on a trickle charge to try and reset a possible lockout (I have been able to read codes without an issue so SKIM lockout may not have happened).
Jumping the car with another vehicle still yields the above no crank condition.

Battery Terminals, Fuses and relays in the Junction box, Power Distribution Centre and Integrated Power Module are all sound.

Starter motor, starter relay and the associated circuit are all good. The starter cranks beautifully when I jump the relay, and the ignition is giving 12v (at key position 1 (Start)) to the starter relay. The only one missing from this party is the PCM which is not giving a ground to pin 85 of the starter.

The Transmission range sensor is giving a ground to the PCM in Park and Neutral and the Dash indicates the correct gear as I toggle the gear lever.

After the No crank, No start condition, I tried removing an aftermarket caravan brake circuit which may explain the ABS light, it was spliced.

My ELM327 usb interface with windows software PCMscan, EFIlive, Proscan, Scanmaster and scanXL communicates with the OBDII port and I was able to read codes P1684-Battery was disconnected, and P0513- Invalid SKIM Key (originally generated from my alien RFID) but both codes have naturally cleared.

Other, possibly related issues with the Jeep:

The steering wheel lock will not engage and remains unlocked at all times.

The courtesy/cabin lights flicker intermittently.

The transmission fluid slowly leaks but the dipstick still indicates sufficient oil in the transmission box.

The AC has not been cold in the 2 months prior to the car being stored.

My TPMS has always needed servicing and the headlights were always scaringly intermittent, from memory and according to my late father, who I inherited the Jeep from.

I am located in an underground carpark next to Sydney airport with low clearance and have been told by dealers and independents that there are no DRBIIIs able to come out to the jeep. I understand it would be a lot quicker to diagnose with a DRBIII or Witech, but I am hoping I have given enough information for an experienced campaigner on this forum to logically determine the repair needed alongside me.

Could I please ask your help in isolating the repairs that needs to be made and I will be right on it, step by step.

[Starion VR4]

For shits & Giggles spray some starter fluid into the inlet & then try to start it, if it coughs then you have spark & most probably no fuel.... You have to start somewhere.

[TorqueTalk]

Originally Posted by Starion VR4

For shits & Giggles spray some starter fluid into the inlet & then try to start it, if it coughs then you have spark & most probably no fuel.... You have to start somewhere.

Thanks mate, I haven't tried that but I also haven't been able to achieve crank except by jumping the starter relay. I can hear the fuel pump priming in key position [on] and the gauge indicates there is fuel.
I will get some starter fluid tomorrow and spray the intake whilst jumping the starter relay whilst also turning the key to [Start] simultaneously to try and get a spark (If the PCM allows it).

Being able to start it and move it out of the underground carpark, even if I need to macgyver it each time to start it, would definitely be a step in the right direction!



Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[JGC-ANDY]

hi TorqueTalk
I am assuming that there is factory immobilser on the jeep, have you checked to make sure that this is turning off correctly, this could be where your problem lies.
otherwise start by tracing your wiring from the battery to ignition to starter just to make sure that you have power through the circuit, the fact you can jump the starter by crossing terminals is a good sign, try giving the solenoid housing a tap with a hammer as it may be stuck.
if you do manage to get it started by having the key in the start position and jumping the starter then this will isolate the problem to the above circuit.

another thought,,, double check all your earth straps these can stop a starter from turning as well, quickest way is to use a jump lead to earth the starter to the battery, if this works then you could have found your problem.

hope this helps, regardless of all the electronic gizmos fitted to cars these days always start with the basics, air, spark, fuel & power to starter.

good luck matey, keep us informed.
andy

[Clarky]

2 common no crank issues

1- Yellow wire to the starter has poor connectivity or corroded at the starter motor.

2- Ignition contacts worn preventing ignition cycle. You can sometimes get it to crank if you turn the key quite firmly clockwise in the start position. The switch itself is only a $50 part.

[Clarky]

Originally Posted by TorqueTalk

Dear Jeep community,

2005 Jeep WH/WK Grand Cherokee 5.7L Limited



Other, possibly related issues with the Jeep:

The steering wheel lock will not engage and remains unlocked at all times.
sounds mechanical, there is a cable that connects to the transmission shifter, it may be stuck/disconnected or broken



The courtesy/cabin lights flicker intermittently.
Check for loose terminals under the 2 fuse box's in the engine bay, can cause all sorts of mystery faults http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_fuses.htm

The AC has not been cold in the 2 months prior to the car being stored.
Probably condenser failure, lower passenger side is common

My TPMS has always needed servicing
TPMS receiver (there are 3) probably faulty or wiring issue. Don't think its the sensors as they don't throw a service message, just blink at the unreadable location.

headlights were always scaringly intermittent, from memory and according to my late father, who I inherited the Jeep from.
Headlight control stalk/lever or clock spring
.

……….

[Jonny Jeep]

I don't know if the WK has an ignition switch actuator pin like the TJ/XJ era models, but that can break causing a no crank issue.

If this is the problem in this case (or a bad ignition switch), turning the ignition on, and then pulling the start relay and jumping the contacts should crank/start the engine.