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Old 13-02-2016
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Default Australian Army Willys/Jeep Trailer

I don't know if there is any interest to this but thought I might show what I am currently working on. I bought an Australian No.4 Army Trailer, though they were used by all our armed forces. Originally bought to just use the tub as a bed for my Grand Willys project, but it would need too many modifications in resizing to be practical for that. So going to do a partial restoration on it to make it structurally sound so it can be sold off. I don't want to put too much time and money into it and not recoup my investment.


Though similar in dimension to the Willys trailer used in the USA, these Australian ones had different stampings on the ends, guards, and other details. Notice the Willys or Bantam trailer behind it to compare.


It looked really good in the eBay ad shown in the first picture, but what I got was not what I expected. They also took the springs, axle, wheels and tyres by the time I picked it up a few days after the auction had ended! They swapped back the original ones that the trailer was supposed to have thinking they were doing a favour from a restoration point of view. Guess if a restorer wants a period correct one, it might add value to it. I took it home just flipped over on my dads 6x4 trailer.


Stripped the wheels, axle, suspension and the whole A frame off before even un-strapping it. Must have taken half the weight off doing that. The axle is particularly heavy being full floating.


The A frame was in really great nick and just unbolts. Has the original drop down support leg and pintle hook which are quite valuable.


Here is my tag. 2WH means 2 wheels. 8 CWT is 8 Counter Weight, ( 8x112 = 896 lbs), just over 400 kg. Made in 1945. FMC shows it was made by the Ford Manufacturing Company in Geelong. They were also made by GMH in Adelaide. More information of them here. http://jeepdraw.com/TRAILER-AUSSIE.html


Found these original army specs for my trailer online on the G503 site. My exact trailer was actually pictured on there too as an example. Couldn't believe it when the serial numbers matched!


Thought I would start the trailer repairs on fixing this impact spot.


Looks like most of the damage is centred around the one area.


Welded on a piece from my slide hammer kit.


It is a pretty big one and just started sliding the weight towards me to pull the bend out.


Came up pretty well. Went right around all the sides and was able to straighten the rest with just careful massaging with a lead filled rubber mallet.
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Old 13-02-2016
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The rails will have to have sections completely replaced.


Next up was folding up a piece to replace the worse effected part of the rusted out frame. Used the same gauge as stock.


Pretty good match.


Cut away the rusted out section.


Can see it was pretty bad. The drain hole must have gotten plugged with mud.


Inside the frame was a reinforment piece of channel that strengthened where the A frame bosses are and extended up to the front leaf spring mounts. I coated everything in weld through zinc primer


Welded the channel in place and made up new bosses for where the A frame bolts in. Didn't have any pipe the right size so drilled out some solid bar to match. Thicker wall than standard but don't think anyone will complain about that.


The front spring hanger was originally rivetted on. I wanted to match that look if I could in case a restorer bought the trailer. I rounded the bottom of the bolt heads before bolting it down while it is easier to do.


The bolt head where then finished off with a die grinder. Rounding the bottom of the bolts worked well as stopped any gouging of the bracket. The nuts on the inside were welded to the frame and then the bolts tacked to the nut so it can't ever come loose.


The frame welded back in ready to get the floor section afterwards. I will only be repairing the floor that is over the frame rails to make it sound. Too risky to buy replacement floor and weld it in and not get enough resale for it.


The floor section will be plug welded where the spot welds once were on both the bottom and sides. All welds will be ground and sanded smooth to blend in.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 13-02-2016 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 23-02-2016
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Floor repair section cutout, folded and zinc coated where it can't be reached later.


Nice tight fit ready for welding.


Side has tight gaps too.


Did the plug welds first so it can't move out of position.


Bottom been plug welded and fully welded to the floor.


Side now done too.


I used one of the stake dollies I had made as a heavy weight to hammer against to stretch the weld shrink out to straighten the side. I hammered from the bottom up as the weld had pulled it downwards.


A bit of a clean up.
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Old 23-02-2016
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The other corner was no where near as bad and just cut out the area effected.


Welded in a new floor section first and sprayed zinc primer down inside the frame rail ready for the new section.


New piece welded in.


New end caps to be made. Internal dimensions plus flange depth minus material thickness on each side. Then the corners cut out.


Used my new folding pliers that I picked up while in England a few months ago. Makes for a quick fold.


The last short section was too small so used good old pliers that have the ends ground flat and did it in sections. Takes longer but still works.


After spraying the zinc coating on it, it is ready to tap into place.


Fully welded in and the drain hole drilled back in the stock spot.
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Old 23-02-2016
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Fascinating stuff - I wish I had the skills/patience/tools to do work like this.
Do I spy part of an old FJ40 in the shed as well?
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Old 23-02-2016
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Superlative, Sir.
Thank you...
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Old 23-02-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes View Post
Do I spy part of an old FJ40 in the shed as well?


Nah man, check out Gojeeps Grand Willys thread....
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...ad.php?t=97856
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