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  #8  
Old 21-03-2012
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Try http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=112657
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Old 21-03-2012
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I'm currently in the process of fitting our UHF - Uniden UH 7760NB - the control unit mounted super simple under the passenger seat in a bracket that looked made for the case - mounting holes and all. Power from a battery isolator under the drivers seat.
The aerial is being trial mounted from the LH side roof bar with an aluminium bracket made to clip into the bar, then clamped in place.
As I plan to only fit up the aerial when we are going away the lead is taken just through the door seal and held in place using sticky cable tie mounts down the door pillar exterior.
The plan looks like it will work, just got to get some clear time to finish it up before we go away on the weekend.

Marc - I noticed in your write up that you suggested switched power is available from the front cigarette power outlet in the cubby, and it seems this works OK for you.
As I thought this was a good spot I discussed it with the autoelec at my dealer and he strongly advised against this.
Reason he gave is that this source is where the Aus fit up reversing camera takes its power when wired up locally with a new harness from back to front. This wiring is part of the canbus apparently and any work on it must be flashed to the system so it expects a specific load.
He recommended that ANY aux wiring be kept away and separate from existing wiring in the whole vehicle because of the potential for canbus conflict and the weirdo hassles that can cause.
Direct to the main battery was his only option.
Hence the reason for my feed coming from the aux side of my battery isolator which is fitted anyway to supply 2nd battery and the fridge plus extra power at the back for lighting etc. I know that supply isn't ignition switched but because the main battery is protected by the isolator I can live with that.

Last edited by JnK; 21-03-2012 at 08:14 PM.
  #10  
Old 22-03-2012
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My suggested feedpoint is from the socket inside the center console behind the gear stick, not the one forward of the gear stick. Forward one is switched (no good). The center console behind the gear stick is unswitched. I can't see any canbus involvement. I haven't had any issues.
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Old 22-03-2012
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While this isnt about UHF wiring, you can use the same principles to provide power and avoid problems with CAN...

http://autospeed.com.au/cms/title_To...5/article.html
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Old 22-03-2012
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Very interested to know what this possible 'problem with CAN' could be. The cigarette lighter in question is an accessory socket, i.e. it could have anything plugged into it, drawing between 0 and whatever the circuit is rated at. I'm not sure I understand how wiring a radio permanently in parallel, can be any different from just pluging it directly into the socket, except that it draws a small amount of current even though the power is off. To my knowledge, there is no CAN logic continually testing the socket. What could it test for? There may, or may not, be something permanently connected.

The lights issue is real, but how does this affect lighter sockets?
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  #13  
Old 23-03-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhillman View Post
Very interested to know what this possible 'problem with CAN' could be. The cigarette lighter in question is an accessory socket, i.e. it could have anything plugged into it, drawing between 0 and whatever the circuit is rated at. I'm not sure I understand how wiring a radio permanently in parallel, can be any different from just pluging it directly into the socket, except that it draws a small amount of current even though the power is off. To my knowledge, there is no CAN logic continually testing the socket. What could it test for? There may, or may not, be something permanently connected.

The lights issue is real, but how does this affect lighter sockets?
I am with you Marc, and I asked that specific question - although only relating to the switched outlet.
I was with the tech and the dealer autoelec working on our vehicle at the time - both were adamant that the Canbus is flashed to change the expected load on that specific line when they install the reversing camera (which is wired differently to US models it seems). I posed the scenario that anything could be left plugged in to that outlet and the vehicle operated. Both wouldn't move from their position that the system bus can be influenced and it was safer to keep away.
I guess their position only reflects their training and experience on the vehicle (which may or may not be limited).
My vehicle was back there for a day and a half trying to fix 1 taillight, plus the tailgate interior lights out at delivery. They almost stripped the lining trying to trace wires as their system showed faults everywhere when they ran it via their laptop connected to Detroit - and the brake controller I had installed was well under suspicion to the extent I came to the workshop and stripped it out to eliminate.
Eventually the fault was found to a bad connection in the new loom installed in the lift gate when they had fitted the reversing camera. (the brake controller and my wiring was completely exonerated but it wasn't a pleasant experience believe me).
Because the trailer plug had been installed at the same the system had found another way to back feed power to the camera from the reversing lights. The interior light and the tail light were affected by the back feed and just stopped working. In the old days it would have been a typical earth problem fault (probably still was). They fixed the bad connection - cleared all the faults logged in the bus and yay - all sorted. 3 happy people finally.

Having seen first hand the issues created by this and how difficult it was to diagnose even though they were able to interrogate and test all systems via the laptop I am now fully converted to keeping completely away from the Jeep system.

I made the statement above about the training and experience of techs available to work on these vehicles if there are issues, and that point alone was the major factor to convince me not to take any risks if at all possible. (No criticism of the guys that worked on ours - they did everything they could and eventually fixed it)

Certainly others have connected in with no issues - so questions can be asked again......
Apologies for being long winded but maybe you can get a sense for where I am coming from and where I'm NOT going.
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Last edited by JnK; 23-03-2012 at 06:53 AM.
  #14  
Old 23-03-2012
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Hmmm - not convinced by their explanation. The outlet in question is the only item on the circuit, and is protected by a fuse. Having the canbus monitor the circuit seems to add no value. What can it test for? The current can be anything between 0 and the fuse rating. If it goes above the fuse rating, the fuse will blow. It would be nice if the canbus told you a fuse had blown. Not sure why you'd flash the circuit current limit, as that is set by the fuse.

Anyway, there are many things that make no sense to me, and this is just another one of them.

In practice, it seems that putting a UHF radio in parallel with the center console outlet doesn't cause a problem.

I would be interested to know how you connected directly to the battery. I looked at this option, and it didn't seem straightforward. I have another radio I'm looking at installing, and it draws 20A. I can't steal off an accessory connector for that. Is a photo possible?
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