What have you done to your JK this week? 2.5M Views

[trbn8r]

Hi Guys,

I wanted some better traction aid than the factory traction control and recently got a TrueTrac fitted to the rear diff of my JKU after much reading. I had three options

1. Lunchbox Autolocker like AussieLocker etc.
2. Gear Driven LSD like Truetrac (the one I went with)
3. Proper locker Eaton E Locker

My main criteria was Money, Effectiveness and stress on the drivetrain, Relatively Less Complicated Setup, Ease of maintenance, Minimum chances of failure and vehicle immobilization off road.



1. Money:
Autolocker: Cheapest Approx $500
TrueTrac: Medium $750
Eaton E Locker: Approx $1100

2. Effectiveness and stress on the drive train:
Autolocker: Very effective. Provide 100% lockup. Will engage and disengage while turning. May be noisy in operation. Relatively higher stress on the drive train.
TrueTrac:Will not provide 100% lockup but will provide a high percentage of torque to the wheel with traction as long as the other wheel is on the ground. This effect can also be attained by partial application of the handbrake so very suitable for rear diff applications. Also in most circumstances you lift the front wheel as most of the weight is transferred on the rear axle forcing the rear wheels on the ground. Least stress on the drivetrain.
Eaton E Locker: Most effective setup, provides 100% lockup on command. Big advantage is that it is selectable, so you can have open diffs when you dont need the locker. No stress on the drivetrain when disengaged

3. Relatively Less Complicated Setup:
Autolocker: Easiest to setup. Can be done in you front yard as it retains the carrier and only the spider gearsare swapped with the new components.
TrueTrac: Medium. Will need a professional shop to set up as the whole carrier will need to be replaced. The ring will have to be reset (not technical terminology) with the pinion. We ran into an unexpected glitch here. The holes in the new carrier were 7/16 but on the original were 1/2". In addition the carrier was hardened. So it needed specialized tools and a bit more time to drill the holes out to 1/2" adding to the install cost.
Eaton E Locker: Most complicated of the three.It requires all the steps as above but in addition the diff housing needs to be drilled and wires need to be laid to operate the electric locking mechanism.

4. Ease of Maintenance:
Autolocker: Needs no maintenance but locking teeth are prone to wear and eventually need replacing.
TrueTrac: No maintenance required at all.
Eaton E Locker: Will need little maintenance as electronics is involved and solenoids etc can fail and if not routed properly the electric wires can wear and cause shorts and failure.

5. Minimum chances of failure and vehicle immobilization off road:
Autolocker: Failure will immobilize vehicle in most cases. As they normally go out with a bang.
TrueTrac: Will not immobilize vehicle. Worst case scenario you will have open diffs. It does not engage with sudden force and will slip before the force reaches component breaking level.
Eaton E Locker: Failure is not common and most common failures will leave your vehicle with open diffs but drivable.


Based on the above research I decided to go ahead with the Truetrac. Although I have not come across many JKs in Australia use it but on recommendation fro Chris Covington and reading thru a lot of US Jeep forums (Where most people loved it) decided to go through with the purchase. It is a good tool for C+ to B+ grades but if you are venturing into the A, A+ category I will recommend installing the E Lockers.



Initial Impressions:


OffRoad:

On the recent trip to Lake Lyle I left the front swaybar connected so I can see a bit more use of the rear axle. On a couple of climbs on the Quarry and behind it I used to feel one of the rear wheel spin a bit and the electronic traction control grip the brake and let go again and again and some wheel spin was unavoidable. This time with the TrueTrac I felt a tiny bit of initial wheelspin probably less than one revolution of the wheel. In that spin the TrueTrac engaged and I could feel the rear axle act like a locked axle and I climbed up the hill with no further spin. I had the same experience on a few more climbs. The spin was so small that the traction control failed to detect it. Overall I was very happy with the behavior of the TrueTrac.

OnRoad:

On road the axle behaves just like an open diff and you will not feel any difference in driving.

Sometime when I used to turn right or left and accelerate from a standing start (like turning right on a traffic light when you find a bit of a gap in the oncoming traffic, or turning left from a connecting road onto a main road especially on a wet road) I used to feel the inside rear wheel spin and the whole traction control go into spasms. The traction control used to apply random braking on different wheels coupled with reducing the engine power trying to control the Jeep from going into a spin. This used to sometime leave me dangerously slow to get out of the way of oncoming traffic. Today I tried the same thing on a no traffic area of the road. I again felt a little bit of initial slip but then the axle acted like a locked axle. I could feel the tyre scrubbing on the road but the traction control failed to detect any slip and didnt go int a spas attack which was a very good unexpected outcome for me.

Hope this helps someone in similar circumstances as me....

Cheers

Mani

[xdefender]

Originally Posted by The Beard

You're not wrong, I take the tips off (one bolt) when I'm heading offroad. I forgot about them one time and scraped the shit out of the bottom first drop off. Had to wait for them to cool down before I could remove them. Engine enamel fixed it right up.

I'd be leaving them off for good. Not my taste at all. You'll probably find you'll lose the mud flaps to the fist time you back over an obstacle. They are way to long. That bar is cool but.

[Hotdognz]

Originally Posted by camc71

Uneek 4x4 Armour package now fully fitted.

Looks great Cam, I'm next inline at Stu's for the Uneek rails

[The Beard]

Originally Posted by xdefender

I'd be leaving them off for good. Not my taste at all. You'll probably find you'll lose the mud flaps to the fist time you back over an obstacle. They are way to long. That bar is cool but.

Way too long, but it's all the more motivation to get my lift and tyres sorted to make them seem less so.

The exhaust tips are love/hate for most people I'm finding.

[YankeeDave]

Originally Posted by The Beard

Way too long, but it's all the more motivation to get my lift and tyres sorted to make them seem less so.

The exhaust tips are love/hate for most people I'm finding.

they are meant to be cut back to 300mm from the ground.

Beard, looks great

[OrsmJeep]

Originally Posted by trbn8r

Hi Guys,

I wanted some better traction aid than the factory traction control and recently got a TrueTrac fitted to the rear diff of my JKU after much reading. I had three options

1. Lunchbox Autolocker like AussieLocker etc.
2. Gear Driven LSD like Truetrac (the one I went with)
3. Proper locker Eaton E Locker

My main criteria was Money, Effectiveness and stress on the drivetrain, Relatively Less Complicated Setup, Ease of maintenance, Minimum chances of failure and vehicle immobilization off road.



1. Money:
Autolocker: Cheapest Approx $500
TrueTrac: Medium $750
Eaton E Locker: Approx $1100

2. Effectiveness and stress on the drive train:
Autolocker: Very effective. Provide 100% lockup. Will engage and disengage while turning. May be noisy in operation. Relatively higher stress on the drive train.
TrueTrac:Will not provide 100% lockup but will provide a high percentage of torque to the wheel with traction as long as the other wheel is on the ground. This effect can also be attained by partial application of the handbrake so very suitable for rear diff applications. Also in most circumstances you lift the front wheel as most of the weight is transferred on the rear axle forcing the rear wheels on the ground. Least stress on the drivetrain.
Eaton E Locker: Most effective setup, provides 100% lockup on command. Big advantage is that it is selectable, so you can have open diffs when you dont need the locker. No stress on the drivetrain when disengaged

3. Relatively Less Complicated Setup:
Autolocker: Easiest to setup. Can be done in you front yard as it retains the carrier and only the spider gearsare swapped with the new components.
TrueTrac: Medium. Will need a professional shop to set up as the whole carrier will need to be replaced. The ring will have to be reset (not technical terminology) with the pinion. We ran into an unexpected glitch here. The holes in the new carrier were 7/16 but on the original were 1/2". In addition the carrier was hardened. So it needed specialized tools and a bit more time to drill the holes out to 1/2" adding to the install cost.
Eaton E Locker: Most complicated of the three.It requires all the steps as above but in addition the diff housing needs to be drilled and wires need to be laid to operate the electric locking mechanism.

4. Ease of Maintenance:
Autolocker: Needs no maintenance but locking teeth are prone to wear and eventually need replacing.
TrueTrac: No maintenance required at all.
Eaton E Locker: Will need little maintenance as electronics is involved and solenoids etc can fail and if not routed properly the electric wires can wear and cause shorts and failure.

5. Minimum chances of failure and vehicle immobilization off road:
Autolocker: Failure will immobilize vehicle in most cases. As they normally go out with a bang.
TrueTrac: Will not immobilize vehicle. Worst case scenario you will have open diffs. It does not engage with sudden force and will slip before the force reaches component breaking level.
Eaton E Locker: Failure is not common and most common failures will leave your vehicle with open diffs but drivable.


Based on the above research I decided to go ahead with the Truetrac. Although I have not come across many JKs in Australia use it but on recommendation fro Chris Covington and reading thru a lot of US Jeep forums (Where most people loved it) decided to go through with the purchase. It is a good tool for C+ to B+ grades but if you are venturing into the A, A+ category I will recommend installing the E Lockers.



Initial Impressions:


OffRoad:

On the recent trip to Lake Lyle I left the front swaybar connected so I can see a bit more use of the rear axle. On a couple of climbs on the Quarry and behind it I used to feel one of the rear wheel spin a bit and the electronic traction control grip the brake and let go again and again and some wheel spin was unavoidable. This time with the TrueTrac I felt a tiny bit of initial wheelspin probably less than one revolution of the wheel. In that spin the TrueTrac engaged and I could feel the rear axle act like a locked axle and I climbed up the hill with no further spin. I had the same experience on a few more climbs. The spin was so small that the traction control failed to detect it. Overall I was very happy with the behavior of the TrueTrac.

OnRoad:

On road the axle behaves just like an open diff and you will not feel any difference in driving.

Sometime when I used to turn right or left and accelerate from a standing start (like turning right on a traffic light when you find a bit of a gap in the oncoming traffic, or turning left from a connecting road onto a main road especially on a wet road) I used to feel the inside rear wheel spin and the whole traction control go into spasms. The traction control used to apply random braking on different wheels coupled with reducing the engine power trying to control the Jeep from going into a spin. This used to sometime leave me dangerously slow to get out of the way of oncoming traffic. Today I tried the same thing on a no traffic area of the road. I again felt a little bit of initial slip but then the axle acted like a locked axle. I could feel the tyre scrubbing on the road but the traction control failed to detect any slip and didnt go int a spas attack which was a very good unexpected outcome for me.

Hope this helps someone in similar circumstances as me....

Cheers

Mani

Wow cool write up....I could be thinking of going the same way. Cheers Mani

[SeaComms]

Though to be honest they are prob the first ones I have seen that actually meet QLD regs! Yes the regs are min 300mm from the ground but the second and mostly overlooked requirement is they should also be 20° or less when drawing a line from where the tyre touches the ground and the bottom of the mudflap. Easily done when a long overhang behind the rear axle but on the short back end of the jk where the flap is right behind the tyre its almost impossible to meet.

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