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  #78  
Old 10-04-2014
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Just a little update.

Re these upper trilink bushes. Yep have revisited and remade the captive nuts, this time long nuts that go through the plate and protude into the hole with a rubber hose (home made rubber bush). The captive nut is now welded to what remained of the captive nut cage.

I noticed on the other end of the bush, the bracket holes were elongating, I got the really tuff steel washes of the original bolts and welded them into position, its now around 5 mm thick and doesn't move one iota.

Also lengthened the boomerang to help with a bit of diff tilt, that with a spring perch rotation of around 12 mm on axle it all fits perfectly together now, without using a jack and mucking around for alignment.

I also changed the ball joint, NOT using one of those gold coloured ones. Found a real one in europe and got that sent, a much sturdier ball joint. much better than the oem one. You can even smell the real rubber....

Incidently the original ball seemed ok under hand pressure, it was that this one and many of those types that I have seen the rubber stuff they used is often NOT bonded to all the surfaces in the housing.

Additional muzing:

I'm making up a set of long arms, but will probably use the same bush as is on the body end or the lower rear arm, this is because its slightly smaller than the axle end and will allow me to get it a little closer and down on the axle, that should reduce any tendancy for a rear axle wobble and minimise the torque steering out of the rear.

I kind of like the FJ cruiser setup for the lower arms actually, it mounts the axle bushes behind the axle, seems to me under load that it would use the weight of the vehicle as well as spring pressure to stabilise the back end as opposed to spring pressure only.

I think with a lift or change in height from say sagging springs its possible to put out jeep lower arms into an easy over centre situation, oscilating up shorter and through to short lower position, so that when torque applied or reduced the axles essentially twist, Torque steering I'm calling it, neat for getting out of a bog I expect, not so neat if your travelling the highway or if it got too wobbly to control.
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Last edited by crdjon; 10-04-2014 at 02:31 AM. Reason: fix up
  #79  
Old 10-04-2014
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Thanks Jon, keep us informed of your suspension upgrades, it may warrant a new thread of it own.
  #80  
Old 15-08-2014
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Thought I'd give an update on this thread. The car now has 180,000km on the clock and to say this year has been a challenge wrt to the KJ is a serious understatement. Since end of last year we've sunk some serious money and time into it. Had I known back then this would be the case we most likely would have sold it and used the sale money plus the money outlaid to buy something else. I think we've replaced half of the car from the front bumper to the tow ball so really there's no choice now but to keep it for the long haul. As long as it gives us a break from both financial and emotional grief for a while I'll be happy.

So what's been done? List is below and if/when I dig out more definite costs I'll put them up.

Alternator - changed end of last year after the clutch pulley called it quits. Found the aftermarket unit at a place in Eagle Farm Brisbane called "Cool....." something. Bit under $500 from memory.

New timing belt/tensioner/pulleys plus water pump plus serpentine belt - done just before Christmas. Cost a total of around $3500. I did get a water pump from VM in the UK but they sent the wrong one so I still had to buy local. On top of that it literally took until earlier this week to get a refund from VM and I really had to hound them for this. It also cost me close to $100 to send the damn thing back to them.

New rockers/lifters/head gasket/glow plugs - After the car crapped itself mid February (cause not determined definitely) the same mechanic who did the timing belt etc pulled it to bits quite possibly unnecessarily. I then had to get a new head gasket etc and this was a painfully slow process with bits coming snail pace from the UK (still apparently their quickest delivery system!). Paid out a grand for parts but the problem wasn't fixed. Cost more time and stress than anything after agreeing with mechanic to take car elsewhere and no payment required.

New injectors/radiator/heater T hose - After removing the car from the first mechanic it was taken down to Hammonds who did the timing belt around 5 years ago, should have gone there first up. The radiator proved costly as no CRD aftermarket was available so around $900 supply for that alone. All up close to $4500. Only around $900 of total cost was labor.

New hydraulic clutch line - Ended up doing this myself after getting a new unit through Jeeepart in Hervey Bay for $550 delivered. I'm now an expert installing this thing.

New driveshaft front CV joint plus reconditioned diff including all seals and bearings plus new rear wheel bearings - What I thought was the clutch throw out bearing was the driveshaft CV. Having this and the diff done has eliminated most noise coming from under the car and it feels solid. $1765.

New Clutch and throw out bearing plus engine rear oil seal - Have purchased this on suspicion that it will need doing one day as it's the original clutch still and there's a decent oil leak going on. Not installed as yet. Cost around $600 I think.

You could also add the fuel filter head done middle of last year for around $180.

So all up over $12,000 outlaid on this thing in the last 8 months and off the road for around half of that. What have I learned? Stick to a known Jeep mechanic for those jobs you can't do, it will save you grief later. Also make sure you have all parts available before you schedule any work. We all know how expensive these things are to get through the Chrysler dealers and you need to allow time if getting them through them or other sources. After my experiences I'd say get your parts through a local non-dealer supplier so you don't have issues with incorrect part supplies and expensive returns.

So jobs to do still that are on the radar are the clutch and the rust bubbles. Give me a few months at least please before I need to do anything else.
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Last edited by indiedog; 16-08-2014 at 02:48 PM.
  #81  
Old 15-08-2014
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Wow, you must really like the KJ, seems you have. learned a lot about it.
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  #82  
Old 16-08-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crdjon View Post
Wow, you must really like the KJ, seems you have. learned a lot about it.
Jon, I like it less now than I did 12 months ago. We thought if we did the timing belt/water pump we'd have trouble free driving for a few years. So the $3500 put into it end of last year seemed like cheap motoring. It's the ongoing issues we've suffered since then that have been the problem. Whether it was the car or the mechanic who caused the rockers to all break in February we'll never be able to positively determine. At that point however the car became a bit of a money black hole with no one really knowing how much it would cost to get it back on the road. Trying to sell it at that point wasn't an option so you just open the wallet and empty it into the hole. The clutch line was a .....err..... "bonus" and the the diff/CV decided it wanted some of the inheritance also. We really can't afford to sell it now.

To be honest I do like the car. I like the size of it and how it performs (when it goes). And yes, I've certainly learned a lot about it in the last year or more.
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  #83  
Old 16-08-2014
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All read and understood, they are definitely one of those love and hate items.

The oem was on the right track with these, was ....

Lots to say about it but, with any luck youll get a few more years without too much trouble.

I replaced a thermostat the other day, OEM, it leaked around the top seam from new. Fixed that, it had worked well and shows that the original was never working properly. One of the question marks, got a spare now though and working making the other one let me pop the top and not have to take everything out to replace the inards, and ar a greatly reduced price.

Its a real learning curve to say the least.

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