Grand Willys Project

[Gojeep]

Originally Posted by Stressball

Hi Marcus, any chance of filtering by latest post? Been following along on here but can't seem to set the new webpage to filter from latest post to oldest post which would be super handy, the index doesn't help get there...

I will be putting a latest update direct link near the top of the index page every time I add new pages with the date they were added. That should get you to the new stuff quickly.

[Gojeep]

Searched for a while for replacement door handles to suit new bear claw latches which are much safer than the old 70 year old stock ones.


Needed extra clearance for the handle link inside to clear the window, so decided that raising the mounting area to the height of the ribs worked best. The new handle didn't fit between them anyway.


Made the patch clear the old hole and move it inwards at the same time.


Welded in. Moving the handle inwards means the mounting pad lines up with the end of the existing ribs and moved the link over the glass rather than on top of the glass channel for more clearance.


After hours of searching I ended up choosing some die-cast chrome handles I had spare imported for my XJ Jeep Cherokee to replace the plastic ones it had.


Used the handle's gasket to mark out the hole needed.


Holes cutout and hole drilled for the stud at the other end.


Need to build a mounting pad for this end too and do something about the centre rib.


I thought shortening the rib was the best thing as gives more clearance for the knuckles.


I had cut a slot up the middle of the rib and then hammered it down do get rid of the excess material. The slot closed right up once flat, so then just welded it closed. A new mounting pad for the handle will be added after cutting out the area in the same way as the other end.


As it was hard to planish the area flat after welding, so I made up this dolly to suit out of some scrap.


Laying the door over on a trestle, I could just hammer down on the dolly to flatten the two mounting pads.


Think the size and squareness of the handle suits the door.


The slightly bigger size suits the proportions of the bigger than stock door as well.


Can see how the rib removal behind the handle works well for the knuckle clearance.

[Auscruiser]

If I had a 10th of your talent I'd be happy Marcus.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CJ6np435]

nice work Gojeep, looks very neat, will you keep the handles chrome?

[Gojeep]

Originally Posted by CJ6np435

nice work Gojeep, looks very neat, will you keep the handles chrome?

Yes mate will leave them chrome just like the originals. Suits the era and better wearing. Will be more chrome like the front bumper and bonnet ornament, same as stock.

[CJ6np435]

I think you should sit the cab on the chassis and trailer it out to jeepfest, I'd love to see it in the flesh, in it's raw form, just to be able to see and appreciate the work you've put in so far....

[Gojeep]

Bought a new bear claw door latch kit to update the nearly 60 year old stock ones. Was hoping to use the donor Jeep ones, but they were just way to big to fit. These come in a small and large styles, but chose the large which is recommended for heavier doors as has more latching strength.


The position was same as stock centering on the B pillar recess. It will fit over the old location in the door as well.


Will have to find a way around the interference of the locking lever with the window channel.


The large and small styles are both the same thickness at 19mm- 3/4". Will have to hammer out the side of the door a bit to make sure it clears.


The mounting plate is is fully welded into position.


Just showing on the other door how I pre-tensioned the door by clamping down onto the trestle before welding it. The shrinkage of the welding brought it back flat again along the back of the door.


Smoothed off. You barely notice the extra couple of millimetres to clear the window channel as I made sure the folded edge was still straight and inline with the rest of the door.


Here you can see the differences and the modifications needed. I hammered out the old recess for the exterior handle mounting screw and also deepened the one side of the pocket for the window channel mount.


I had done this by making this little hammer form to match the shape I wanted in the end.


The form was placed on the table and the door clamped over it. The edge was then hammered down. A mallet was also used inside the door to hit down on top of this hammer.


Can see the shape finished now.


Can't say I was that rapt in the way it mounts with the jaws protruding past the door edge when open.


It also meant the striker bolt mount would be partially off the edge as well on the B pillar as well as the caged nut on the back.


So I welded up the mounting holes and made the front opening hole smaller as well. Moved the whole lock back further inside the door. This also solved the clearance problem with the locking lever as well as more clearance for the opening and closing release latch as well.


I couldn't use the recess as then the striker bolt would not reach the new lock.


So it was cutout completely so that the new mounting plate with the nut cage with nut could be butt welded into place. The top and bottom edges were arched outwards slightly so that the weld shrinkage would pull it inwards.


Good full penetration welds, rather than weak little tacks all over the place, was used to weld it into place. Pre-stretching the edge meant it pulled back flat after welding as no hammering could be done.