XJ on 31s and it's rubbing... insight needed

[nicholasnicholas]

Originally Posted by awg

I use Ford Explorer wheels, which have a different offset and tubular lower control arms to prevent rubbing with 255/70/16 tyres and a 2" lift

As far as I know this is the absolute limit that one can legally have a lift and max tyre size, any more than that, and technically it needs an engineers cert, but when I ask people they rarely have that!

to accurately measure lift, measure between axle housing top and base of frame stiffener

problem for you is mine dont come close to rubbing where yours does, used to touch the original LCA, and my wheels move them out 12mm

If I was you, I would trim the wheel arch. If you look at GoJeeps website, the way his is done, you dont even notice, and he keeps the original flares

I'll have a look at GoJeeps now and see what i'm in for...
But if fitting these things is going to be a legal gray area and maybe not great for the jeep over all... might be wiser to sell the wheels?

[nicholasnicholas]

Originally Posted by awg

as far as I know, spacers are not legal

"offset" means the centreline of the wheel is relocated, and backspace is the other term

so you need one opposite to my Explorers, older Ford wheels fit the studs

I advise you to look up Wheel "offset" and "backspacing" on Google

Absolutely will be looking this up, often learning things as I go with the jeep!!
The folks i bought the wheels from had them on a 96 XJ, didn't appear too much different in lift height to mine so I did assume it should work

I'm now understanding that the 265x75x16 are closer to 32s... which also sheds some light on why cutting is probably going to be the only way... hmmm

[Billnick]

Or, you could just adjust the stops so the steering wheel doesn't turn so far. IIRC it doesn't need much and you don't notice the difference.

[nicholasnicholas]

Originally Posted by Billnick

Or, you could just adjust the stops so the steering wheel doesn't turn so far. IIRC it doesn't need much and you don't notice the difference.

I like the idea of adjusting the steering stops before going for the cutting on wheels i haven't even tested out while driving... yet!

Is it really as simple as turning the bolt / adding washers to add more length?
If there's a trick to it or info to follow that'd be amazing to know!


Thanks for the input so far guys!

Also to get an idea, here are some pics of the rig and wheels to get a better idea...




PS: Are the images attaching?
If not direct links are:
https://ibb.co/tPh6pd2
https://ibb.co/tPh6pd2
https://ibb.co/v1MJf0W

[nicholasnicholas]

It may even be worth considering something like this? https://www.4x4point.com.au/intro/pr...et-lift-kit-2/

I measured the lift on there (hard to know what the previous owner actually did!) But it's looking like Front: 2-2.75" Rear: 2"

Hmm

[Monstermk2]

Steering stops won’t help you with clearance to the rear of the guards . Only way to fix that is smaller tyres or chop guards . A small amount of room can be had by fitting adjustable control arms and moving the diff forward but if your at that point most of the time aftermarket flares and guard chop have already been done .

It’s only on the front that you’ll need to chop out the rear of the guards to have steering clearance .

So realistically , your options are smaller tyres or guard chop . That’s it .

Many many of us have had this issue before and tried almost every option under the sun to fix it . And it almost always goes back to it .

[Billnick]

Originally Posted by nicholasnicholas

Is it really as simple as turning the bolt

Yes.

Turn the wheels until the wheel start to scrape then loosen the bolt and unscrew it until it contacts the stop. Do the same the other side.

The lift is measured from the middle of the hub to the underside of the mudguard. Should be about 20".

Cheers