TD gearbox removal

[amlav]

After a few years of putting up with oil dripping I decided I'll have a go at it and change the rear end seal and cam o'ring . Had a look under the car (quite a few times but always said myself ....one day will happen) and now it drips alarmingly .
I know some of you guys are experts in removing gearboxes on 2.5 VM TD's and I'm after advise in the order things are done .
Most worrying part is the fact that gearbox is heavy and not sure what to use to support it when removing and lowering it down .
Also would or could that be a one man job ??.
Can I lower the box with support/cross member attached ?
Do I need 2 jack trolleys ?
I'll appreciate any advise .
Cheers,
Andrei

[mud_slut]

hi amlav,

i too am looking at pulling my gearbox out shortly, i need to replace my release bearing and will also need to do the seals. Having pulled the gearbox out before you can do it with to trolley jacks but wouldnt advise. I know MM has pulled his out several times with a atv jack i think something like this

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/1214...pid=107&chn=ps

i was talking to a friend who suggested one of these and plan on pulling mine out with it

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Transmiss...oAAOSw3xJVbQM~

i would leave it with the cross member still attached.

if you know how to line a clutch up by hand, go for it. However if not i would recommend getting the clutch alignment tool.

you dont need to but i would be prepared to replace the spigot. mine was non existent when i did my clutch, i just pulled it out with my little finger, no press / removal tool needed

upper bell housing bolts (there are two of the) are e-torx bolts, you will either need a special spanner or special e-torx sockets (some people get away with a multpoint). change those bolts over to hex ones once you have them out.

make sure you mark your drive shafts relative to your tc and diff. we didnt with mine, but probably should have

another optional is to regrease the flex plate and clutch plate springs. you need a specific grease for this.

if you choose to get the flywheel machined while its off. shop around. some places want to treat it as a commercial truck flywheel. its really not.

all in all with the right tools i think you should be able to do it by yourself. but hey get a friend around for some beers just to help out. even if its for the tricky bits.

i hope some of this is helpful. its a bit of a brain dump.

[layback40]

I have had mine out twice. Didnt change the cam O ring the first time.
Did it by myself with 1 trolley jack & a bottle jack.
Leave the cross member on.
You can remove the gear leaver by using 2 bolts with nuts on them, all that remains is a little stub. Or you can remove the leaver all together.
In the parts sticky there is information on the seal. I have done over 150,000km since & the seal is fine.
Its worth cleaning the underside before you start.
I used about 3/4 of a meter of socket extensions to do the top torx bolts.
The 3 electrical connection plugs can be a pain.
I left both tailshafts attached to the gearbox, disconnected at diffs.
It is heavy.
Take the starter out early on as its bolted to the housing that needs to come off.
Be prepared to replace the clutch.
There are several O rings. To be on the safe side I backed them all up with plenty of silicone.
Good Luck !

[amlav]

Thanks guys . Mainly the removing/lowering procedure worries me the most .
Should the car be jacked up or can be done without jacking up ?
Would be enough just to slide the gearbox back once removed ?
Would it be possible to lower the cross member just enough to get the engine angled down to reach the etorx bolts on top ?
Removing the starter is a challenging job on its own .
Pulled/reinstalled the engine out of my Tranzit on my own from the front with a hoist and a jack trolley but this xj gearbox got me thinking a bit about safety side of it.
Cheers,
Andrei

[mud_slut]

ahh gay, i just replaced my starter and was hoping to not touch it..ever..again.

and specific silicone LB ? and yes replace all three to be safe

not sure about angling the engine, but hey give it a crack, just dont snap the engine mounts. i too used a lot of extensions up the tunnel to get onto that upper bell housing bolt.

another tip, support the engine with bottle jack and a block of wood.

[layback40]

Originally Posted by amlav

Thanks guys . Mainly the removing/lowering procedure worries me the most .
Should the car be jacked up or can be done without jacking up ?
Would be enough just to slide the gearbox back once removed ?
Would it be possible to lower the cross member just enough to get the engine angled down to reach the etorx bolts on top ?
Removing the starter is a challenging job on its own .
Pulled/reinstalled the engine out of my Tranzit on my own from the front with a hoist and a jack trolley but this xj gearbox got me thinking a bit about safety side of it.
Cheers,
Andrei

If yours is at standard height or higher you dont need to jack up ~ I didnt.
i found it easier to drag the gearbox right out so I could clean it . No need to take the cross member off.
Angling the engine worked for me.

[layback40]

Originally Posted by mud_slut

ahh gay, i just replaced my starter and was hoping to not touch it..ever..again.

and specific silicone LB ? and yes replace all three to be safe

not sure about angling the engine, but hey give it a crack, just dont snap the engine mounts. i too used a lot of extensions up the tunnel to get onto that upper bell housing bolt.

another tip, support the engine with bottle jack and a block of wood.

Just need to unbolt starter so the housing comes out.
I used red high temp silicone. Just get the highest temp stuff you can find.