JK Sport vs Rubicon (Used in Australia)

[bradsm87]

Originally Posted by snowing

Think samft is right.
With a lifted wheel and open center, the wheel having the least traction gets the power. In this case the lifted wheel, so that's 100% torque and that's why you see it spinning and the one on ground not moving.

With a locker on, torque is distributed to both side evenly regardless of traction, so that's a 50/50 split. I've heard others said that's a 100% to each side.. But whatever the interpretation is, both wheels received the same torque.

LSD is similar to locker in a way except it still takes into account of which wheel is not getting traction and the mechanism just make sure the one still have traction receives minimum torque depend on the ratio of LSD. ie. 20% for wheel on ground 80% for wheel in air.


For rubi vs sport, if you have any plan to go bigger than 35" wheel, you'll eventually need to strengthen your axles. Also, what you planning to do? Sand driving? Rock climbing? 4.88 gear ratio with 35" tire won't do you any good in sand. 3.75 gear with 35" tire won't help you much in climbing rocks.

Unfortunately, this is not correct. See my reply to samft. I have bought and used LSDs in a good handful of cars now and I'd consider myself to have my head around how open, lsd and locked torque distribution well. It takes a while to get your head around at first but easiest way is to remember wheel speed and torque are not related.

Wouldn't I need stronger front axle with a Sport, even with 35s to be on the safe side? I'd prefer to end up with a front Dana 44 with Trusses and C gussets at minimum , regardless of which way I go. Vehicle intended use would be mainly bush tracks with a bit of mud and a bit of rock, a beach here and there and driving to/from the destination on the road. No intention to use daily on the road. Why would 4.88 with 35s not be good in sand?

[humdingerslammer]

[Vehicle intended use would be mainly bush tracks with a bit of mud and a bit of rock, a beach here and there and driving to/from the destination on the road. No intention to use daily on the road. Why would 4.88 with 35s not be good in sand?[/QUOTE]

So, bradsm87, I have an 07 Rubicon 3.8 pretty much stock standard and that has done what you r saying you want your JK to do. I don't drive like I am wanting to bust a nut or something, but I have found the Rubi reliable as is, wherever I have travelled, including remote bush tracks, sand, rock, mud, beach etc. and including towing a trailer and weighed down to the max and more!!

The money I haven't spent on unnecessary mods I have used to get out and see a lot of the country, remote, civilised and not quite so civilised.

Do you have a lot of money to spend (real money, I mean) or an open credit card???? Or someone else's???

[bradsm87]

Originally Posted by humdingerslammer

So, bradsm87, I have an 07 Rubicon 3.8 pretty much stock standard and that has done what you r saying you want your JK to do. I don't drive like I am wanting to bust a nut or something, but I have found the Rubi reliable as is, wherever I have travelled, including remote bush tracks, sand, rock, mud, beach etc. and including towing a trailer and weighed down to the max and more!!

The money I haven't spent on unnecessary mods I have used to get out and see a lot of the country, remote, civilised and not quite so civilised.

Do you have a lot of money to spend (real money, I mean) or an open credit card???? Or someone else's???

I need to spend as little money as possible but I have heard a lot about front axle housing bending. I wouldn't consider strengthening it as unnecessary. I'd prefer to truss it (Less than $30 to DIY), C gussets ($80 at most) and maybe sleeve it ($150) than to allow it to get bent and have to buy a whole new housing. I do want to be able to drive it pretty hard at times considering I'd be buying it as a dedicated off-road vehicle. I've got plenty of friends running 32s that regularly drag diffs in the bush so I want to try and help avoid that by going 34s.

[Fruju]

I've always liked the idea of Torsen diffs and was looking at putting some in my Pajero but could only find one for the rear.

As far as strengthening the tubes, I believe you get the most gain from trussing so the need for sleeves aswell would be a waste.

[bradsm87]

Originally Posted by Fruju

I've always liked the idea of Torsen diffs and was looking at putting some in my Pajero but could only find one for the rear.

As far as strengthening the tubes, I believe you get the most gain from trussing so the need for sleeves aswell would be a waste.

I agree that trussing is the way to go and I don't want to be adding unnecessary unsprung weight. I'll probably give sleeves a miss. Every saving of money and work helps!

[dru]

Brad, all the best on your investigation!

I'm no expert but have been heading down a similar road. We started with a 2014 Rubicon. Lifted and shod it with 34" or 315 70 R17. I found crawl speed not slow enough in technical bits on the 4.10 diff ratios.

We did an axle seal to the front diff and used this as an excuse to reconsider the ratios and diffs. Just updated to 4.88 ratios. On advice we stiffened the front D44. Aparently the Jeep D44 isnt as strong as they used to be. We used inner axle sleaves and arranged external seals.

General advice was that was enough and that the rear is fine. Though ultimately we included a front welded truss, C gussets and aftermarket ball joints.

Looks strong.

The crawl gears are truly great. Im still trying to assess impact on fuel economy but there is a definite impact on highway driving. To the worse.

While I dont do a lot of beach or desert driving I dont get the ratios being a problem in sand. Surely you just go up a gear.

Was a Rubicon the right start point? Probably not. In retrospect a Sport may have been a cheaper start point.

Enjoy!

[YamahaDOC]

Dru manual or automatica?