What did you do to your XJ today? 1M Views

[Easy Rollins 1]

Originally Posted by Cypher

Just had another quick look, put together a shopping cart with everything from the one warehouse, this will do both calipers:

Piston x2 - RAYBESTOS Part # DPS85392
Piston seals x2 - DORMAN Part # D351473
Caliper bolts/slide pins x 2 - DORMAN Part # HW5066
Slide pin bushings x1 - RAYBESTOS Part # H5593A

Works out to be $84.08 with shipping to my post code.

You won't need pistons,might as well save your money.

[Cypher]

Originally Posted by Easy Rollins 1

You won't need pistons,might as well save your money.

I did, the stock ones are phenolic (ie: plastic) and mine were cracked in a few places

[anthonygubbin]

Just redone the + cable for the amp. I changed it from 10g amp cable to 8g amp cable. In the process I have tidied up my battery terminals by taking off the Jaycar noise suppressor and shifted the stereo and amp leads to aux battery. Next thing is to bi-carb soda the terminals and degrease around the battery.

Regards A

[darksidecustoms]

Originally Posted by Cypher

Mine's a post-update, '99. It made it home without leaking thankfully

Rang Repco, $120...stuff that nearly half the price from rockauto

Don't forget to order a new oil sender

[anthonygubbin]

Just redone the cable for the Waeco. I thought I am doing others so why not do it at the same time. Ended up using 50a twin, which he called 6mm as that is what the installers use around the corner.

Regards A

[junglejuice]

I am always bemused why they use current ratings on cables, there is no current rating on cabling, there is a cross sectional area and you have a voltage rating on the insulation plus you have ohms/metre but not a current rating...

If that "6mm" cable is automotive cable then it will actually be less, as with most things to do with cars it is exagerated, they actually include the insulation in the measurement which is completely pointless!!!!

[anthonygubbin]

Originally Posted by junglejuice

I am always bemused why they use current ratings on cables, there is no current rating on cabling, there is a cross sectional area and you have a voltage rating on the insulation plus you have ohms/metre but not a current rating...

If that "6mm" cable is automotive cable then it will actually be less, as with most things to do with cars it is exagerated, they actually include the insulation in the measurement which is completely pointless!!!!

Yerr I heard say that a few times JJ, . I have little idea about cable sizing other than what I get told I should use by the auto electrician. The thickness of the copper is pretty much a tight fit in the yellow crimp terminals. You would have a better idea than me what it is in mm2. It seems a decent thickness as it is heavier than what I was using and I had no troubles before runnning the Waeco on the thinner cable. But as a precaution increased the size as per an AJOR members advice. Out of couriosity what would be the thickenss of the copper?


BTW did you get a chance to read my last post re the amp & head unit and the ground loop issue. I was hoping you might be able to point me in some direction on how I can work out what is causing the ground loop.

Regards A