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  #106  
Old 04-04-2013
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Murray is pretty much "on-the-money"

ALWAYS disconnect both battery leads when arc welding on any vehicle.
Earth clamp/lead should be connected directly to the item being welded...
(electricity sometimes likes to travel through bearings/bushes etc - with disastrous results...
Probably better to remove altogether for a good job?
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  #107  
Old 04-04-2013
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I'll preface this with - I usually disconnect the battery for just about any work I do, not just welding.... Just a habbit.....
However I question the old wives tale of the Battery needing to be disconnected before welding - if proper common-sense practice is followed.
Do you disconnect the ECU or other modules before you weld? Well these are probably at more risk.
ALWAYS connect the earth as close as possible to the weld area for a few reasons - battery, bearings, seals (remember it gots hottest between the weld & earth), modules etc. Also specifically you must earth the item you are welding, not something nearby. (Just to state the obvious)
Pay specific attention to ensuring you have good earth.
If welding anywhere near electronics I would suggest pulling all the main fuses - just cause it's quick and a lot cheaper than new modules
  #108  
Old 05-04-2013
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Thanks guys for your input!! Great info, glad I asked first

Quote:
Originally Posted by murray View Post
if it is stripped all the way the i would weld a piece of flat bar with a hole drilled in it this will alloy down the weld mix also it gives you some ware close to attach the earth to.
send me a pm with a contact phone # ill run through it with you as you are in perth
Thanks Murray for your offer, I have PM'd you my # . I can't say I fully understand what you recommend re the flat bar etc... And yes the thread is stripped all the way to the top.


I'm having second thoughts now on tack welding a nut onto the stem (top of shock) cos I realised than when I go to actually remove the shock I won't be able to get a grinder in there without taking out the batt, coolant overflow, and brake booster... I do have a dremel but its garbage and don't know if it would be able to grind back metal/weld. So going to explore options to re-tap the thread...

I will however need to do a small tack on the bottom bolt in order to be able to remove it eventually.
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  #109  
Old 02-05-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turismo07 View Post
Thanks guys for your input!! Great info, glad I asked first



Thanks Murray for your offer, I have PM'd you my # . I can't say I fully understand what you recommend re the flat bar etc... And yes the thread is stripped all the way to the top.


I'm having second thoughts now on tack welding a nut onto the stem (top of shock) cos I realised than when I go to actually remove the shock I won't be able to get a grinder in there without taking out the batt, coolant overflow, and brake booster... I do have a dremel but its garbage and don't know if it would be able to grind back metal/weld. So going to explore options to re-tap the thread...

I will however need to do a small tack on the bottom bolt in order to be able to remove it eventually.
I know its been a while as I've been too busy to update, but I thought I'd finish of my query by saying I got it sorted.

Didn't need to do any welding at all! I ended up getting a full set of Skyjacker shocks of a wrecked WJ in my area at the right length and everything just in time for my planned trip so it was just a matter of fitting them up. I got the the lower shock nut off the stud by grinding it off and it was very tight to get the angle grinder in there but it got done

Thanks again to Murray who was very helpful on the phone! PS - I did end up cleaning the thread out with a die, went and purchased the exact nut as per the die only to realise that the new nut was too big as the stripped bolt/stem had lost so much metal that it was a lot thinner so needed to get a smaller sized nut... But this was not needed in the end as I got the new shocks.
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  #110  
Old 21-03-2014
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Default Murray, what about Mig repairs??

Gday Murray.

Mate I'm having a problem with my cigweld brumby 180. It's currently set up to run gas-less.
It keeps tripping the overheat. If I let it cool and try to weld again it just trips again. This happens all the time, NO weld time at all, don't get a chance.

I've had a look inside and can't see anything obvious to me ( I'm no electronics wiz ) given it a blast with compressed air and tidied up a few corroded connections, but no joy.

I took some pics of the pcb, I wasn't sure about one of the capacitors. Dunno if it is resin or it shit itself.???



What do you think ?

cheers
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  #111  
Old 22-03-2014
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the capacitor next to the heat sink looks fritzed
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  #112  
Old 29-03-2014
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Hey Murray I was wondering if you could give me some insight into what brand of welder to buy. I have a budget of $2000 and have 15amp power. I have been looking at the cigweld 250amp as then I have mig/stick/tig. Is there any brands I should keep clear? How have the cigwelds been holding up?
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