TD gearbox removal

[layback40]

Originally Posted by amlav

Got the back housing off . No need to remove starter .Just puled the housing of the block and had enough space to get the cam o'ring out (Thanks MM and LB ).
The o'ring on the back of flywheel was a bit thin compared to the groove it was supposed to be in . Couldn't feel much popping up above the grove edge .
The cam o'ring instead of round became a bit flat but still flexible . It is a orange color and more likely a high temperature one .
RMS black in color and quite hardened.
I've ordered the RMS the Viton one $24 from a bearing place 110x130x12 the 13 one not available .Thanks LB for your sticky ...
The 2 smaller o'rings I still have to order them. Wasn't sure of size's and I'll take them to the shop so the guy knows what to order .
All fine up to here but the back of flywheel and the 2 half thrust washers have about 0.5mm wear and the crankshaft end play is around 1.5mm . Book specifies maximum 0.3mm play . So far wasn't noticing any knocks , probably the clutch keeps crankshaft sort of pushed forward .
Did you guys had this issue ???
Cheers..Andrei

Sounds like all O rings & RMS are stuffed.
I didnt have an issue with excess thrust. I guess you could put a shim behind the thrust washers 1/2's. Has the white metal all gone? If so need to replace.
Sounds like cam O ring is viton.
Was it clear where the oil leak was?
Best take the housing to the shop & let them measure the groove.

[amlav]

Checked on the net for new thrust washers and nothing available .
Surface on them is a bit pitted beside the 0.5mm wear . Probably dirt caused the pitting . I just polished the pitted surface lightly as much as I can . If that's all the wear after 17 years than should still last .
Researched the cause's of wear on the net and one of the cause is riding the clutch when driving ( and I do .... but won't anymore) than the second cause is dirt . Both combined wears them out faster than normal wear .
Could not see any oil washed path on the back housing but it was leaking from the bell housing so I think it was Rear Main Seal . Seals on order ...
Cheers,
Andrei

[amlav]

Have the RMS and o'rings and the cam one is wrong size (2mm larger).
Counter guy took the measurments , gave him the old one and still got it wrong.
He assured me that o'rings and RMS are Viton ones but the color is different . RMS is black/redish , cam one is dark red and flywheel one is black .
Hmmm...maybe I'll ask around a bit more .
Anyway the proper size's for them is :
O'ring on the back of flywheel is 64mm internal diameter and 2mm cross section .
Cam shaft O'ring is 65 internal diameter and 3mm cross section . The OEM one is sillicon (softer ) .Used the Viton one (a bit harder seal ) .
By pulling the back housing of the block I was able to remove the top starter bolt and I can give a god clean to the block surface and back housing before reinstall .
Cheers,
Andrei

[amlav]

No good . Still leaking a touch between engine block and crank housing .Seem to come from the side that has the cam o'ring .Got the feeling that it should have been a silicon (more softer) o'ring . The viton one is a bit harder to compress .
Looks like I'll pull the gearbox out again in near future but for now I had enough . Job it's self wasn't to hard after all . Thanks every body for all advises .
BTW the rubber boot on the gear shift lever that attaches to gear box it self is ripped . Tried to figure it out how to pull apart the lever and don't know how . Bottom section seems to be pressed in to the top section trough some sort of square joining hole . Any tips ??? Cheers Andrei

[layback40]

Originally Posted by amlav

No good . Still leaking a touch between engine block and crank housing .Seem to come from the side that has the cam o'ring .Got the feeling that it should have been a silicon (more softer) o'ring . The viton one is a bit harder to compress .
Looks like I'll pull the gearbox out again in near future but for now I had enough . Job it's self wasn't to hard after all . Thanks every body for all advises .
BTW the rubber boot on the gear shift lever that attaches to gear box it self is ripped . Tried to figure it out how to pull apart the lever and don't know how . Bottom section seems to be pressed in to the top section trough some sort of square joining hole . Any tips ??? Cheers Andrei

When I did mine, I put 2 beads of silicone as a back up to the cam seal. Also filled the groove with silicone before putting the o ring in. That is probably what is keeping mine sealed. I dont like or trust O rings. They always fail in time.

[amlav]

Hi LB .
I should have...but trusted the o'ring . After thought would be maybe crank housing distorted a bit after so many years and the fact that are only 2 bolts holding the pressure on the o'ring in that area wouldn't seal evenly .
Never mind....next time viva la silicone . Cheers , Andrei

[amlav]

Pulled off the gbox again and replaced the cam o'ring with a silicon one . Also applied a tiny silicon bead around it .
Just to be on the safe side I also applied a bead of Ultra Black silicon (the black one) around the outer edges of back housing and the bolt holes .
Used the Ultra Black because it is softer and it spreads in a very tin layer once compressed in between the block and back housing . Had to install the back housing quick before the silicone starts to harden .
Also is rated at up to 260 degrees celsius .
Re installed the lot and let it run at idle for about one hour and so far not a drop of oil .
Andrei