Service Exhaust Immediately

[LeCheese]

Originally Posted by Treebreakerbob

I remember posts from the early days that the gauge rises when working unlike jap stuff where the gauge stays half way till it’s very hot, then fires up to the red quickly.

Yep, these things rise up pretty quickly, but seem to stop just under the 3/4 mark with the fan going crazy and thermostat opened up.

I was in a new 300 series the other day and the temp gauge on that thing is crazy! Literally does not stop moving

[FARWEST]

Return trip...18C ambient....temp avg 66C....which is almost 10C warmer then the Melourne trip (but ambient avg. 9C on that trip)....trans stayed pretty much on 80C....fuel useage 8.8lt/100....thats ok....I did 'stab it' a few times on long straights to overtake convoys of 'slow pokes'....full service due....see how things go after that...wont add Moreys to the fresh 40w...will be starting to add the LUCAS Upper Cylinder Lubricant (packaging claims to lube pumps and thats the only failsafe I'm chasing)....as a sideline....both diffs have a 20% ratio mix of Moreys so not 9nly is the engine oil 'thicker' with the change to 40w and about 200ml of Moreys in it...but its also pushing the 'thickened' diff oils and of cause the 500ml of Moreys used as a 'quick fix' in the auto....I saw Suoercheap does carry the LUCAS Transmission additive recommended on the Euro Sites as a 'quick fix' for these trannys....it only 'fixes' it short term and isnt a cure all ie: wont help(well....it will/does to some extent.....25k since I added the Moreys) if your towing or working the tranny hard...'some' mechanical aptitude and understanding of whats going on with your vehicle IS needed....cant put brains in a statue

[FARWEST]

Originally Posted by LeCheese

Yep, these things rise up pretty quickly, but seem to stop just under the 3/4 mark with the fan going crazy and thermostat opened up.

I was in a new 300 series the other day and the temp gauge on that thing is crazy! Literally does not stop moving

Mine does vary a lot when towing....so when under load....up to half on the gauge which is 95C ish....just not when travelling unhitched on open roads/freeways.....I check the digital gauges all the time when cross checking the dial gauges....still a li'l undecided as to wether thats a good or bad thing....the thermostat housing looks undisturbed from the factory

[Grippy]

Yep, mine was always the same, I reckon a cooler thermostat from factory.
Old mate reckons diesels need to run warmish, not hot, not too cool.

[FARWEST]

Originally Posted by Grippy

Yep, mine was always the same, I reckon a cooler thermostat from factory.
Old mate reckons diesels need to run warmish, not hot, not too cool.

Yep....its more to do with the engines metal compounds and all the sensors and electrickery involved in these technological marvels....not just these....all the 'new' stuff....brand is irrelevant


And I am showing my age....this shyte started in the 90's when efi became the common form of fuel delivery in leaded fuel cars...injection, of some type, was always the delivery method for diesels

[OLMATE]

Originally Posted by LeCheese

I was in a new 300 series the other day and the temp gauge on that thing is crazy! Literally does not stop moving

They are a Hot V design whereby, the air enters where the exhaust manifolds sit on a normal V6 engine and the Twin Turbos and exhaust are in the valley of the engine. imagine the heat trapped inside

[LeCheese]

Originally Posted by OLMATE

They are a Hot V design whereby, the air enters where the exhaust manifolds sit on a normal V6 engine and the Twin Turbos and exhaust are in the valley of the engine. imagine the heat trapped inside

Yep, although I do think the gauge was just super sensitive, and the temp change wasn't as dramatic as indicated. Hot V isn't really a novel configuration anymore - the required heat management is pretty well understood, but it'll be interesting to see how it plays out once the tuning and modification cowboys start pushing the limits. Funnily enough though, apparently the Toyota Genuine bullbar is causing overheating issues due to its lack of cooling... the ARB bars (and others) have additional cooling openings on the lower guard.