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Old 4 Weeks Ago
Hammertone  Hammertone is offline
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Kiwi- yeah so I guess what I was really asking in my OP was, do I get the rubi and suffer with the 3.8 or do I get a 3.6 sport and then install lockers. If I was putting lockers in Iíd regear while I was there so itíll end up being an expensive upgrade.

Anyway, my decision is made. Yesterday I put a deposit down on a bright yellow 2015 sport with 45,000ks for $28k. Itís very clean, never been off-road and came with a stubby bar and rear bar, lights, winch and a bunch of internal additions. Itís more than Iíd intended on spending but Iím very happy with it and itíll make a great platform to build on.

So given that Iíve already overspent, does this sound reasonable to start with? Pick up a second hand 2Ē spacer lift, put on some 35s a snorkel and some discos. From there I can put a bit of research in and work out a permanent solution to the lift. Would it be silly to go straight for 35s without regearing or strengthening the front diff/axle?
Old 4 Weeks Ago
samft  samft is online now
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Congrats on the purchase
auto or manual and 2 or 4 door?

not sure you can go to 35s on stock rims?

FYI the AEV rims are made to be hub centric on the wranglers

wranglers are prone to shakes and wobbles (especially with 35 inch muds) so having a hub centric rim removes one point of unbalance. I didn't get AEV but I would have if I had known this.

I have no experience with spacer lifts but a 2 inch coil and shocks lift might last you a few years and wouldn't cost much more, it might be worth doing that while you sort your diffs and lockers.

2 inch lifts are incredibly simple, but as soon as you go to 3 inch you begin needing to change geometry etc.

If you're going to 35s, a 2 inch lift will probably do you well for a long time.

You could always grab some new rims and 35s and trial them. If you're cautious I think the D30 will be fine. that way you can swap back to the stock tyres easily if the 35s sap too much power (before re-gearing diffs).

You need to decide if you're going to stick with the D30 (meaning strengthening and re-gearing) or buy a built to order D44 with the gearing / lockers built in

Modifying the D30 will mean more time in the shop for your vehicle i suspect

I personally would save up for a built D44, it probably wont end up costing much more (especially when you consider labour and time in the shop) and you'll have piece of mind that it's significantly tougher (which it sounds like you'd make the most of).
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