TJ: Faithy's TJ with Patrol diffs and dual transfers...

[Faithy]

-the input gear from the d300 is installed on the doubler output shaft and the d300 bearing retainer and input shaft are discarded. This is the reason for such a short and well integrated design. Pretty clever fellas;
-my favorite gasket maker. It's actually designed for diff gaskets;
-doubler output case half and shaft installed on the d300. I indexed it so my old Novak NP231 cable shifter can be retained for the doubler's shifting. It also has 3 NPT tapped holes so you can set the breather where you want it and plug the other 2;
-the doubler input shaft is installed inside the planetary gearset then installed into the ring gear. It takes a couple of taps as the input bearing is a slight interferance fit. Once through, install the circlip on the bearing then attach the input seal/housing onto the front case half. It only fits one way and there's oiling holes.

[Faithy]

-assembled dual cases;
-the dual cases are 400mm in length combined.. the same length as an NP231 with a SYE!;
-test fit under the TJ at stock d300 rotation. Jacked up it sits 90mm below the frame rails so I'll clearance the floor with the BFH, clock it flat and move it up. It'll still be 1" under the frame rails compared to my previous flat belly but I'd rather have gearing and I can just install another 1" of spring lift if it needs it.

Pretty stoked with the kit. Took about an hour to install - the case halves are the adapters really so it's just too easy. I did the write up quickly cos NWF don't provide instructions and they don't have them online for this kit yet.

Can't wait to test it!

[Faithy]

Got the CAD drawings finished for mini boat side rockers, fuel tank skid, upper control arm frame brackets, and sway bar brackets. Designed the control arm brackets to key together so they self-jig. The fuel tank skid will also have a notch made for the rear stretch. Should turn out ok.

If anyone wants the DWG file, let me know

[Faithy]

Got the mini boatside rockers built - link to fab section - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=146849.

Also remade the control arm frame brackets. Pic shows front upper and front passenger lower.

Got a WJ/WG steering pump on the 4-sale section. They flow a lot more than TJ pumps cos WG's have hydraulic fans too. Pic shows ported pump inlet. You fit the high pressure fitting from the TJ to the WG pump. I'll drill mine to 4mm. The hydro ram has 60% of the volume of the steering gearbox so I'll need more flow to get the same steering response. Standard pressure fitting has a 3.5mm hole - 4mm will flow 50% more fluid. I'll keep the stock pulley for now but can go with 22% overdrive pulley for more low rpm flow if needed. I've ordered a new bearing and will replace the seals. The vanes and vane housing still looks new so this should last longer than the TJ does.

Picked up a cast iron pot belly stove to keep the shed warm in winter..

Last pic shows the adjustable brake bias controller. Rear discs and different front brakes called for different bias. Forgot how much I hate making double flares!

[Faithy]

Got the rear frame mounts for the 4-link welded on today. I'm planning to redrill the upper control arm diff brackets about 50mm lower for less anti-squat and more up travel. There's currently 280mm vertical seperation so I've got the luxury of lowering it further but the numbers look good with a 50mm drop.

Just have to make a rear panhard rod and figure out placement then fully weld the diff mounts and the rear will be done.

Floor board notch, fuel tank skid, steering, brakes, custom driveshafts and exhaust to go!

[sht50]

Have you run the rear 4 link numbers through the calculator? I'm not sure there is enough triangulation on the links?

[Faithy]

Originally Posted by sht50

Have you run the rear 4 link numbers through the calculator? I'm not sure there is enough triangulation on the links?

Spot on mate, it'll be a 4-link with panhard so there's hardly any triangulation. I haven't made the panhard yet.

My reason for the 4-link with panhard over a tri or dual tri 4-link is twofold:
-having a panhard in the front means there's some lateral movement when a bump is encountered. A dual tri 4-link doesn't have this lateral movement so the car twists a bit and feels odd; and
-I've seen Triaged (wrote the 4-link calculator) and Goat1 (Mechanical Engineer) on Pirate both say that a panhard rod is the best and most effective way of controlling lateral movement, which makes a lot of sense.

Thanks for keeping an eye out though. Your build progressing?